The Washington Post - USA (2022-01-19)

(Antfer) #1

E6 MG EE THE WASHINGTON POST.WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 19 , 2022


playing for them, what’s driving
their drinking.
“The problem,” he says, “is not
what I argued for. The problem
was me.”
While drinking alcohol is never
truly healthy and shouldn’t be
presented as though it is, I think it’s
possible to drink responsibly — or
“mindfully,” as Brown puts it, a term
that I like for its removal of the
slight air of scolding “responsible”
can carry. As someone who often
goes weeks without drinking, but
on a few social occasions a year has
more than the CDC would
recommend at one sitting, I find
that Brown’s argument rings true.
Others will choose a different
approach — less or more — that
feels right to them. Still others (trust
me, I know from my hate mail)
regard any drinking of alcohol as
physically harmful and anyone who
drinks it as simply an addict who
hasn’t yet seen the light.
And arguing is usually fruitless.
After all, anyone who declares “I am
not an alcoholic” often makes their
case as effectively as those who tell
everyone not to think of an
elephant.
Be that as it may, this honest,
nonjudgmental, non-absolutist
approach to considering the role
alcohol is pl aying in your life is one
of the many elements I like about
“Mindful Mixology,” which is being
released during Dry January but
includes nonalcoholic and low-
alcohol drinks — a n intentional
choice, Brown says, but one that
may make the book not the right
choice for someone in recovery. His
takes on the Aperol Spritz, the
Americano and the St-Germain
Cocktail, for example, include not

for whatever reason. And there are
so many, Brown points out. For him
it was mental health; for others it
may be addiction issues, or
pregnancy, or “that they’re running
a marathon the next morning. The
important thing is that they have
choices.”
[email protected]

Allan is a Hyattsville, Md., writer and
editor. Follow her on Twitter:
@Carrie_the_Red.

only the traditional low-alcohol
versions but delicious alcohol-free
doppelgangers. And, of course,
there are plenty of new
nonalcoholic drinks, including a
version of his own much-loved
Getaway.
The book should be a go-to for
those who may want to cut out
alcohol for a while, drink less, or
simply be equipped to host and
serve sophisticated, delicious
drinks to others who are doing so —

NA Getaway Cocktail
1 serving
This is bar owner and writer Derek Brown’s nonalcoholic version of
the most popular drink he’s ever invented, the Getaway. Chinotto and
maple syrups play the role of the caramelly amaro Cynar here for a
drink that’s sophisticated and delicious.
Chinotto syrup, a spiced syrup made from bitter oranges, is available
at specialty Italian stores and online (try Dorsia Provisions).
Total time: 10 mins
The salt water tincture can be refrigerated for up to 1 month.
Adapted from “Mindful Mixology: A Comprehensive Guide to No-
and Low-Alcohol Cocktails” by Derek Brown (Rizzoli, 2022).

Ingredients
For the salt tincture
l^1 / 2 cup warm water
l2 tablespoons fine salt
For the drink
lIce
l2 ounces chinotto syrup
l1 ounce fresh lemon juice
l^1 / 2 ounce maple syrup
l^1 / 2 ounce aquafaba or 1 small egg
white
l^1 / 2 teaspoon apple cider vinegar
l6 drops salt tincture

Steps
lMake the salt tincture: In a small
bow l, whisk the warm water

with the salt until the salt dis-
solves. Transfer to a bottle with a
dropper and refrigerate until
needed.
lMake t he drink: Chill a cocktail
glass. Fill a c ocktail shaker with
ice, and add the chinotto syrup,
lemon, maple syrup, aquafaba
or egg white, vinegar and salt
tincture, and shake hard to chill.
Strain out the ice and reshake
the drink (to increase the foamy
head), then strain into the
chilled glass and serve.
Nutrition | Per serving (using egg white): 180
calories, 2 g p rotein, 45 g carbohydrates, 0 g
fat, 0 g saturated fat, 0 m g cholesterol, 61 mg
sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 43 g sugar
Recipe tested by M. Carrie Allan; email
questions to [email protected]

business associates, were
overwhelmingly supportive of his
new direction.
Brown sees his shift and his new
book — which is chock-full of
balanced, bright drinks that bear
little resemblance to the too-sweet
concoctions that have tainted the
rep of “mocktails” — as part of a
continuum. (He and many others
avoid the “m” word; where others
have tried to find a substitute term,
Brown says he’s not looking for one.
“I want to normalize drinking
sophisticated adult drinks without
alcohol and that means avoiding
ridiculous or confusing names. So,
to me, they’re cocktails,” he writes in
the book.)
His central message in his drink
education efforts, he points out, has
always been about drinking better.
“At one point, that meant having a
better-made cocktail, but there’s
nothing exclusive about alcohol in
that process. I can make great
cocktails without alcohol and I can
continue to encourage people to
enjoy their lives and have great
drinks and be together and that has
really nothing to do with alcohol,”
he says. “I realized that I didn’t have
to let anyone down — in fact, I have
the opportunity to speak for a whole
group of people who weren’t getting
served. Literally.”
When I asked Brown about his
old essay, he easily admits that the
article is just the tip of the artisanal
ice when it comes to things he
would approach differently now.
“You look at something like
‘Confessions of a Binge Drinker,’ I
think I was a little bit in denial. I
think that’s pre tty easy to see in
retrospect,” he says.
But he stands fast on his
overall premise then, which was

has done over the past several years
on the book and on himself, it was
an incomplete one.
“I drank too much,” he says
bluntly. Though he doesn’t consider
himself an alcoholic, a few years
ago, he found he had gotten to a
place where the external reality of
his life didn’t match the internal
one. “Outwardly, everybody was
like, ‘Hey man, you’re doing great!
Congratulations on this thing or
that thing,’ and inwardly I’m just
crumbling,” he says. “I was standing
in a mess of my own making. So
many aspects of my life were out of
my control or not what I wanted
them to be. ... I had to address it.”
I caught Brown while he was
wrestling with one of the stresses
for so many parents right now,
trying to send proof of his son’s
negative coronavirus test to his
school. His new book is dedicated to
his son, and he writes movingly
about the influence of that
responsibility and his growing
sense that all was not well: “I’m not
averse to alcohol, I’m immersed in
it. That immersion has brought me
some joy and recognition for my
craft, but it’s also brought a fair
amount of pain and suffering.
Especially when I had to wake up
and take care of both my son and
hungover self. I’d heat up a bottle
and grab the Pedialyte (the
Pedialyte was for me, bottle for
him), pray that my son would nap.
... But baby duty wasn’t the only
thing that contributed to my pain
and suffering. The lifestyle of a
young bartender and bar owner,
awash with all the trappings of rock
stars except worldwide fame, had
led past late nights into early
mornings and — too many drinks in
— to make decisions I would come
to regret.”
Brown got to a better spot via
some time at an outpatient
prog ram and therapy. He stopped
drinking completely for a while
and now drinks very rarely. But
once he had gotten to a better
place, he says, he had to figure out
what this change would mean. “I
was scared as hell — how am I
going to tell people, especially the
people that rely on me, that I can’t
do this anymore?”
Happily, he discovered that his
fears were largely unfounded: The
people in his life, friends, family and


SPIRITS FROM E1


A cocktail master takes


alcohol out of the mix


SCOTT SUCHMAN FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

REY LOPEZ FOR THE WASHINGTON POSTFOOD STYLING BY DIANA JEFFRA FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

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