But the sin with    those
éclairs went    beyond
portion control.    If  you do
not make    éclairs the right
size    you cannot  achieve the
balance of  crust   and cream
that    makes   éclairs such
perfect pastries.   A   3-  to  4-
inch-long   choux   pastry  like
the ones    in  our recipe  is
just    the right   size    for
achieving   this.   Mini    éclairs
that    are only    1½  or  2
                    
                      chris devlin
                      (Chris Devlin)
                      
                    
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