Make Electronics

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Experiment 11: A Modular Project


92 Chapter 2


Tweaking    it
There’s still a lot of room for creativity here:


  • Adjust the frequency of the sound: Use a smaller or larger capacitor in-
    stead of C2 (half or twice the current value). Use a smaller or larger value
    for R5.

  • Adjust the pulsing feature: Use a smaller or larger capacitor instead of C1
    (half or twice the current value). Use a smaller or larger value for R2.

  • General performance adjustments: try a larger value for R1. Try smaller or
    larger values for C3.

  • Try running the circuit at 7.5 volts, 10 volts, and 12 volts.
    The circuits in this book are suggested as only a starting point. You should
    always try to tweak them to make them your own. As long as you follow the
    general rule of protecting transistors and LEDs with resistors, and respecting
    their requirements for positive and negative voltage, you’re unlikely to burn
    them out. Of course, accidents will happen—I myself tend to be careless, and
    fried a couple of LEDs while working on this circuit, just because I connected
    them the wrong way around.


Step    5:  Enhancements
A noisemaking circuit is just the output of an alarm. You would need several
enhancements to make it useful:


  1. Some kind of an intrusion sensor. Maybe magnetic switches for windows
    and doors?

  2. A way to start the sound if any one of the sensors is triggered. The way
    this is usually done is to run a very small but constant current through
    all of the switches in series. If any one switch opens, or if the wire itself is
    broken, this interrupts the current, which starts the alarm. You could make
    this happen with a double-throw relay, keeping the relay energized all the
    time until the circuit is broken, at which point, the relay relaxes, opening
    one pair of contacts and closing the other pair, which can send power to
    the noisemaker.
    The trouble is that a relay draws significant power while it’s energized, and
    it also tends to get hot. I want my alarm system to draw very little current
    while it’s in “ready” mode, so that it can be powered by a battery. Alarm
    systems should never depend entirely on AC house current.
    If we don’t use a relay, can we use a transistor to switch on the rest of the
    circuit when the power is interrupted? Absolutely; in fact, one transistor
    will do it.

  3. But how do we arm the alarm in the first place? Really, we need a three-
    step procedure. First, check a little light that comes on when all the doors
    and windows are closed. Second, press a button that starts a 30-second
    countdown, giving you time to leave, if that’s what you want to do. And
    third, after 30 seconds, the alarm arms itself.

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