The Times Magazine - UK (2022-01-29)

(Antfer) #1
68 The Times Magazine

n the beginning, Emma Grede created
influencers. Then she invented size 15


  • a dress fit no brands have previously
    offered, but which sits right in the
    middle of the female average – and
    advertised it with actual-size models
    who had stretch marks and a few rolls
    on their stomachs.
    More recently she gave us shapewear
    that doesn’t cut off circulation or look
    like surgical stockings. On the seventh day,
    she rested at her multimillion-dollar mansion
    in Bel Air, the wealthy suburb of Los Angeles,
    where she has a garden banqueting table
    that seats 50 and a wardrobe that is spread
    over four rooms.
    Grede, 39, is the most successful British
    entrepreneur you’ve never heard of. Her
    denim brand, Good American (where sizes
    range from 00 to 24), took $1 million on its
    first day of trading and grew by triple digits last
    year, despite the pandemic. Her underwear
    line, Skims, created smalls for the US Olympic
    team. Her all-natural cleaning range, Safely,
    made eco-friendly products mainstream at the
    height of the pandemic’s hygiene fixation. Yet
    her dentist only worked out who she was after
    her recent turn as an investor on Shark Tank,
    the US equivalent of Dragons’ Den.
    That’s because Grede’s name doesn’t appear
    next to the products that have made her an
    estimated $5 million (£3.7 million) fortune.
    Although CEO and co-founder of these
    companies, she also happens to be the
    business end of the Kardashian klan, using
    their fame to launch the products she believes
    people want and need. Khloé Kardashian
    (214 million Instagram followers) is the face
    of the jeans, Kim (280 million) is the body
    behind Skims, and their mother/“momager”,
    Kris Jenner (45 million), is the unlikely
    ambassador for the cleaning products.
    Unlikely, because a woman who last year sold
    one of her three California megamansions for
    $15 million probably wouldn’t know what they
    were last scrubbed down with.
    “One of the hardest things now is to have
    cut-through,” Grede tells me over Zoom from
    Los Angeles, where her Skims and Good
    American offices are next door to each other.
    “When you partner with talent, you can
    cut through the noise. But it’s got to be an
    incredible product; if it’s shit, it won’t sell. My
    superpower is just knowing what an average
    woman would want.”
    When Good American launched, Grede
    received hundreds of grateful emails every
    day. She still fields plenty of messages on
    Instagram, where she has 195,000 followers
    of her own, from women delighted to have
    found denim (and now swim, gym and
    everyday wear) that fits them. After only
    six years in business, GA’s skinny jeans are
    now known as “America’s favourite” and the


company was last year awarded a prestigious
B Corp certificate, meaning its production
process is accountable to high environmental
and social standards. Prices for a pair start
at around £90. “Men in boardrooms used to
make decisions on behalf of women,” Grede
says. “If she’s a fuller figure, it has to be cut
on the bias and calf-length. Well, we did vinyl
miniskirts in a size 22 and they sold like crazy.”
Grede tells me the Good American
boardroom is a rather more diverse affair.
“It’s just what happens when you’re a black
woman in charge of a company.” But at Skims
at least, the board director also happens to be
her husband. Jens Grede, 43, is a co-founder
not only of the booming Kardashian undies
range but also of the luxe denim brand
Frame and joint CEO of the London creative
agency the Saturday Group, both of which he
co-owns with fellow Swede Erik Torstensson.
Torstensson, 42, is married to the Net-A-
Porter founder Natalie Massenet and the
families often visit each other in California
and the Hamptons.
“I’d love to tell you that we don’t talk
business at home,” Emma Grede says with
a smile. “But we talk about it all the time.
Jens has always supported my ambition,
both in business and as a husband. I’m lucky
I married a Swede who knew about equality
because his mum taught him. It has never
been down to me to look after our house and
children [son, Grey, 7, and daughter, Lola, 4].”
The couple have been together for 13 years
and worked together for 14. “I move quickly,”
she jokes.
Grede describes herself as “scrappy” and
“a hustler”. She cut her teeth finding sponsors
for fashion brands who wanted to put on
expensive catwalk shows, partnering labels
such as Alexander McQueen and Vivienne
Westwood with beauty brands, drinks firms,
tech companies and more – and taking a
slice for arranging the deal. Her first big pay
cheque came aged 26, when a company she
was working for was bought by the publishing
house Condé Nast.
After running one of Saturday’s creative
divisions for Grede and Torstensson, in 2008
Emma founded a new venture, ITB, a talent
management group; she still chairs it.
“I was early to understand the power of
influence,” she explains. “It had traditionally
been A-list actresses in fragrance ads, but
I looked at anyone with a cult following.
Artists, stylists – to me, everyone had
influence that you could potentially
commercialise and monetise.”
ITB was among the first to pioneer and
broker lucrative brand partnerships on the
fledgling Instagram between the likes of Justin
Bieber and Adidas, and the Kardashian half-
sister Kendall Jenner and Calvin Klein, as well
as smaller profile “nano-influencers”. Grede

and her team moved consumer marketing
past advertising and into #sponcon (sponsored
content), a development that now powers an
entire economy on social media and beyond.
“I am unashamedly focused on making
money,” she tells me in an estuary accent
undiminished by her move to LA four years
ago. “I’ve never had a problem talking about
it. People talk about their purpose and why
they do their jobs – I wanted to be able to
afford a certain lifestyle. Money has always
been a pillar for me, because I didn’t have any.”
Grede grew up in east London and then
Essex, one of four daughters raised by a single

I


‘I am unashamedly


focused on making


money. My superpower


is knowing what an


average woman wants’


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