The Times Magazine 79to scoot around the park. The hotel accepts
dogs, muddy bikes and muddy people – it’s
easygoing and friendly.
Small doubles with sea views from £85
(bikeandboot.com)
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The beach of your dreams
One of the most beautiful beaches I have
been to is Magheraroarty on Ireland’s North
Atlantic coast, nearly two miles of powdery
curving sand. It’s gorgeous. And yes, the
water is freezing.
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The Mani, Greece
It’s a four-hour drive from Athens to the Mani
Peninsula, on the southern tip of Greece, but
the roads are empty. The Mani is austere- the granite tower houses a sign of its feudal
past – but fascinating and undervisited. Some
of the tower houses are now hotels. Take Citta
dei Nicliani, with thick stone walls and the
most delicious Greek food I’ve eaten. Pay
homage to the travel writer Patrick Leigh
Fermor in Kardamyli up the coast – he
lived there from the Sixties until his death.
B&B doubles from £89, two night minimum stay
(cittadeinicliani.com).12
Do the Douro by train
The river is the obvious route from Porto
to the port-producing terraces of the Douro
valley, but do get the train one way. It’s cheap
(around £12) and hugs the river for much of
the journey. The train expert Mark Smith, aka
Man in Seat 61, calls it “Portugal’s most scenic
route” – and I’m with him. Some trains depart
from Porto’s attractive São Bento station
(pictured). Bring your own pastéis de nata- there’s no refreshment trolley.
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Copenhagen cafés
The café culture in Copenhagen now beats the
scene in Paris. My list includes Prolog, in the
meatpacking district on Vesterbro, where they
roast their own beans (natch); Hart Bakery,
set up by Richard Hart, formerly the baker at
Noma (the cheese buns come recommended);
and Juno the Bakery in smart Osterbro where
the cinnamon buns are described as “iconic”.14
Noto, Sicily
In Val di Noto, west of the baroque town,
is the former fortified farmhouse of Prince
Nicolaci, Il San Corrado di Noto. It’s
surrounded by working countryside and has a
glistening emerald pool, a citrus grove, suites
with sunny patios and a beach club. If you
can extend your stay, go to the Egadi Islands
(Levanzo harbour is pictured), off the west
coast from Trapani. It’s where the Italians go.
Rooms from £445 (ilsancorradodinoto.com)15
Post Ranch Inn, Big Sur
A road trip along California’s looping Highway 1
is a classic for a reason. Not least because the
route leads to one of America’s most romantic
hotels: Post Ranch Inn at Big Sur. Jutting out
1,200ft above the Pacific, there are 40 guest
rooms (treehouses among them). John
Steinbeck spent a summer working on the
Post family’s cattle ranch, on the site of the
inn. Of course, it has a “basking” infinity pool
from which to ocean-gaze and the rooms show
off either the Santa Lucia Mountains or the sea.
B&B doubles from £1,047 (postranchinn.com)16
Getting away from it all
I love Hinterlandes Hut in the Lake District, a
20-minute walk up an unnamed fell and with
windows looking out onto 7 peaks. I worry a
bit about the compost toilet but it does have
a wood-fired pizza oven and a proper kitchen.
From £190 (canopyandstars.co.uk) n14
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