Food: A Cultural Culinary History

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Scully, Early French Cookery.


Scully, ed., The Viandier of Taillevent.


Turner, Spice.


Van Winter, Spices and Comfi ts.


Woolgar, The Great Household.


Taillevent—Cinnamon Brouet
Although the name brouet in this dish is cognate with broth, this is more
of a thick stew. The fl avors are absolutely typical of the Middle Ages, as
is the technique of cooking twice. For a comparison of the four surviving
manuscripts of this cookbook, see Terence Scully, ed., The Viandier
of Taillevent, p. 55–56. The following translation combines the four
manuscripts for the greatest sense and ease of cooking. Grains of paradise, or
melegueta pepper, can be found online or in some specialty shops. It comes
from the west coast of Africa and is similar to pepper, though much fruitier
and more closely related to cardamom. Do not substitute what is referred to
as malaguetta in South America, which is a chili pepper. Also, verjus is the
juice of unripe grapes; any tart grape juice will work fi ne.


Cook your chicken in wine or in water. Or use whatever meat you like. Cut
it into quarters and fry in lard. Then take dry unskinned almonds and toast
them and mix with a great deal of cinnamon, pound them and mix with hot
beef broth and strain. Let this boil with the meat, with a little verjus, and add
ginger, cloves, grains of paradise. It will be nice and thick.


Culinary Activity

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