Lecture 15: A Renaissance in the Kitchen
Christoforo di Messisbugo, Banchetti (1549): To Make Ten Plates of
Maccheroni p. 52
In the Renaissance, macaroni was a generic name for all kinds of pasta—
either what we would today call gnocchi, tubular pasta, or even noodles.
This version is more of a dumpling but was still labor intensive enough to
be considered elegant and worthy of noble tables. Of course, it does not yet
contain potato, though those were known to botanists in this century. Bread
crumbs serve the same purpose. Notice also the intriguing fl avorings, which
are actually delicious. Feel free to cut down the recipe in any way you like.
Messisbugo gives us measurements, so that is possible, but do note that a
pound at this time was 12 ounces rather than 16.Take fi ve pounds of white fl our and two of grated white bread, and mix well
with the fl our, and then take boiling water and three eggs to make the dough,
which should be neither too tough nor too light. Let it cool a little. Then
cut into pieces about the size of a chestnut, and roll your macaroni across
the holes of a grater and put them into boiling water to cook. When they’re
cooked, add a little salt, then take two and a half pounds of grated hard
cheese with an ounce and a half of ground pepper mixed in, then toss so the
cheese is above and below, along with a pound and a half of butter on top,
then cover with another plate, placing it in a hot place until you’re ready to
bring it to the table, and sprinkle if you like with a little sugar and cinnamon
on top and it will be better.Culinary Activity