Lecture 17: 1492—Globalization and Fusion Cuisines
Chocolate Tasting Exercise
When Europeans fi rst encountered chocolate among the Aztecs, it was drank
and remained a drink for several centuries—but the Aztec beverage was very
different. It could contain chili peppers and fl avorings like güeynacaztle (fl or
de oreja, or Cymbopetalum pendulifl orum), mecasuchil (fl or de cordel, or
Piper sanctum), tlixóchil (vanilla), and achiote (a yellow coloring agent,
Bixa orellana), which turned it deep red. Oddly, chefs are experimenting
with these fl avors in chocolate bars today. When Europeans tasted it, they
wanted to sweeten it with sugar for both gastronomic and medicinal reasons.
They also added cinnamon, anise, and almonds or hazelnuts. One might
consider this the fi rst fusion food, and the type of drinking chocolate still
used in Mexico is relatively unchanged. It is certainly nothing like what is
commonly drank as hot chocolate, made with milk.As an experiment, buy a range of chocolate bars, running the gamut from
very sweet milk chocolate to dark bittersweet with a high percentage of
cacao. They are processed to be eaten directly at room temperature, but
they can all still be made into a drink. Simply dissolve each into a cup of
moderately hot water, stir vigorously, and arrange from lightest to darkest.
Starting with the lightest, notice how the water brings out the fl avor
defects. Sweetness overwhelms everything else. Notice, too, how different
the high-cacao chocolate tastes when dissolved. The bitterness becomes
rounded, in ways not unlike coffee. If you like, experiment with fl avorings,
especially cinnamon next to ground chili. Perhaps the original Spanish
settlers were onto something when they combined Eastern spices with
American chocolate.Culinary Activity