Food: A Cultural Culinary History

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 Like other Spanish cookbooks, Montiño offers a variety of dishes
based on fi sh, spinach, garbanzo beans, and squash. These were
especially important for fast days. There are also dozens of egg
dishes, many of which use fresh cheese, and recipes for roast lamb,
kid, rabbit, and game. A few basic procedures are used for all
available foods.

Albala, The Banquet.


Braudel, Mediterranean.


Scappi, Opera.


Brisavoli
The descendant of this recipe still survives in Italy and among Italian
Americans, but the fl avor combinations speak of centuries past—when
sweetness was still in vogue with meat, as were a wide range of spices and


Pork Chorizos


M


ontiño’s recipe for pork chorizos seems not only typically
Spanish, but also direct, austere, and served without fuss
or garnish. It is a recipe that can easily stand on its own.

Take pork meat that is more lean than fat, and put it in a marinade
of just wine with a touch of vinegar. The meat should be cut into
little radish-sized knobs and the marinade should be sparing, no
more than to cover. Season with spices and salt and let it sit for
24 hours. Fill up the chorizos. They should be a bit plump. Cook
them in water. These can be kept all year. Eating them cooked, there
should be so little vinegar that you can’t sense it before eating them.

Suggested Reading

Culinary Activity

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