Lecture 20: The Birth of French Haute Cuisine

often took their place. This new culinary aesthetic stressed subtlety,

simplicity of preparation, and a logical order to the foods served.

 Naturally, it took many years to totally break from ingrained culinary

habits. In La Varenne’s cookbook, there are as many medieval

recipes lingering as there are new ideas. However, the procedures

have changed. Salt and pepper (as well as cloves) are used to season,

along with aromatics. The meat is fl oured and seared, and the sauce

is reduced. The eventual impact of La Varenne’s new approach to

French cuisine would stretch across Europe.

Other French Cookbooks

 Le Cuisinier, by Pierre de Lune, appeared in 1656, shortly after La

Varenne’s cookbook. De Lune is credited with introducing several

further technical innovations: making regular use of the modern

bouquet garni—a bundle of herbs used for fl avoring stocks and

stews—and offering one of the earliest sets of directions for making

Veal Epigramme (Braised Lamb)

(legs or knuckles of veal)

A

ccording to La Varenne’s cookbook, a whitening procedure,

blanching or soaking, was done in cold water to remove

any blood or impurities from the meat.

After they are well whitened in fresh water, fl owre them and pass

them in the pan with melted Lard (drippings from bacon) or fresh

Seam (rendered pork fat). Then, break them and put them in a pot

well seasoned with Salt, Pepper, Cloves, and a bundle of Herbs.

Put an onion with it, a little Broth and a few Capers, then fl owre

them with some paste, and smother them with the Pot lid; seeth them

leasurely thus covered for the space of three houres, after which you

shall uncover them, and shall reduce your Sauce untill all be the

better thereby. Put some Mushrums to it, if you have any, then serve.