Wheaton, Savoring the Past.
Young, Apples of Gold.
The following recipe should be made with what are known as “baby”
artichokes—although they are not actually younger. They are merely small
fl ower buds and are much more tender. This is a good example of how
recipes have changed in late-17th-century France: The fl avor of the main
ingredient is accentuated rather than hidden and stands largely on its own.
The use of alcohol in the batter is quite ingenious as well. It’s not merely
for fl avor; it evaporates quickly, drawing out moisture and leaving the fried
batter very crisp. A large pot of oil is the most practical way to do this today,
but it is also incomparably delicious fried in rendered lard.
Fried Artichokes
(from L. S. R.’s L’Art de Bien Traiter of 1674, p. 86)
Choose the youngest, trim down the leaves and remove the choke; let them
soak some time so as to lose their bitterness. When you have drained them,
fl our them or batter them in a mixture made of fl our, fi ne salt, white wine or
milk, some egg yolks, all mixed and beaten together, and make this as thin
as you can. Dip your artichokes in, and when covered, fry them in lard or
butter or very hot oil, when they are properly cooked, so they have become
dry, golden and crispy, remove them so they can drain, and meanwhile fry
some parsley, which you have dried, the greenest possible, as the garnish,
and laden your artichokes, on which you sprinkle some fi ne salt and a little
good vinegar, however your guests desire.
Culinary Activity