Food: A Cultural Culinary History

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Lecture 22: Dutch Treat—Coffee, Tea, Sugar, Tobacco


Though Dutch cooking in the 17th century was fairly simple, the following
dish includes expensive imported spices. Its direct descendant, introduced
into what was then the colony of New Amsterdam, we know now as
doughnuts.

Verstandige Cok Olie-koecken
(adapted from The Sensible Cook, ed. Peter Rose, p. 78)
Take six cups of fl our, and add two cups of raisins that have been soaked in
warm water. Add six peeled, cored, and chopped apples; two cups of chopped
almonds; and a teaspoon each of ground cinnamon, ginger, and cloves. Add
a small bowl of melted butter and a packet of instant yeast. Add enough milk
to make a very thick batter, and let it rise for about an hour. Then, heat a pot
of oil (to about 360 to 375 degrees), and with two spoons, drop balls of the
batter into the oil. Turn over when browned on one side, and remove when
puffy and golden brown. Let cool on a rack. Sprinkle with powdered sugar
if you like. The original recipe does not include sugar in the batter, but you
may use some—up to a cup, depending on your preference.

Culinary Activity
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