Food: A Cultural Culinary History

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Lecture 24: Edo, Japan—Samurai Dining and Zen Aesthetics


Edo, Japan—Samurai Dining and Zen Aesthetics..........................


Lecture 24

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apan’s cuisine development does not have to do with exotic ingredients,
complicated procedures, or fantastically impossible presentations of
food. Instead, it is a refi nement based on simplicity, austere aesthetic
presentation, freshness of ingredients, and minimal processing. In this
lecture, which focuses on traditional Japan in the Edo era, you will learn
about a cuisine that developed entirely in its own unique direction, cut off
from the process of globalization—not because of geographical isolation
but, rather, as a result of an intentional shutting out of the West.

Japanese Cuisine
 Many of Japan’s cultural and culinary traditions come from China
and Korea. Probably the most important of them is rice, which only
arrived in Japan at the end of the Neolithic period, about 2,400 years
ago, with immigrants from the mainland. Asiatic peoples came from
the continent with rice and metal tools, and the population suddenly
rose—just like elsewhere in Asia.

 The variety of rice introduced was short-grained, sticky, and
relatively sweet. To this day, the Japanese don’t eat long-grain rice.
Much of their cuisine is based on the tactile quality of the rice they
use and the fact that it sticks together and that you can pick it up
with a chopstick. It is nearly impossible to eat long-grain loose rice
with chopsticks.

 Their respect and reverence for rice is so great that it is never
fl avored or seasoned with spices or sauces. It is always pure white
and boiled. Other foods can go on top of it, but the rice should be
pure and bland to start with.

 One of the only preparations that alters rice dramatically is mochi,
which is little rice cakes made by pounding steamed glutinous
rice. Neither mochi nor sake are thought of as a corruption of
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