Lecture 24: Edo, Japan—Samurai Dining and Zen Aesthetics
soured, decomposed rice would be wiped off, and the fi sh could be
eaten. In the 18th century, the hand-rolled nigirizushi was invented
and served at restaurants, basically as a kind of fast food. In terms of vegetables, there are several different kinds of seaweed
that are eaten either as a side dish (hijiki) or as an ingredient in
dashi, which is basically a stock central to Japanese cooking. It’s
made with dried bonito shavings and kombu, which is a giant sea
kelp, and water. Seaweed is also used as a condiment. Daikon
radish is another popular vegetable in Japanese cuisine. Soybeans are also central to Japanese cuisine. They are eaten lightly
boiled and cold (edamame); they are also made into tofu, which is
of great use to Buddhist monks. Soy is also made into miso paste,
which is a fermented and storable seasoning for boiled dishes and
soup. There are dozens of different types of miso, and the Japanese
appreciate the subtle differences the way Europeans obsess
over wine. Shoyu, or soy sauce, is a relative newcomer to Japan. In the 16th
century, it began to be made on a commercial level. Today, soy
sauce is the most important seasoning. Another basic fl avoring is
mirin, and all sorts of sauces are made with soy, vinegar, or citrus
(ponzu). Other important vegetables are gourds, which are dried
and cut into long strips, and mushrooms. Shiitake mushrooms are a
unique Japanese cultivar.Japanese Table Manners
The Japanese ate with their fi ngers before the 7th century. From
China, along with Buddhism, the chopstick was introduced. Food
is typically cut into mouth-sized bits, or sometimes larger; the
Japanese like to get an entire mouthful at a time. For some strange
reason, spoons did not catch on, and the Japanese usually sipped
directly from the bowl, which forces you to concentrate on the
contents. It’s a much more focused activity than slurping liquid off
of a spoon.