Food: A Cultural Culinary History

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Lecture 31: Immigrant Cuisines and Ethnic Restaurants


Immigrant Cuisines and Ethnic Restaurants ..................................


Lecture 31

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n this lecture, you will learn about immigration and the proliferation
of ethnic cuisines in the late 19th and 20th centuries. This lecture will
examine not only the people who came to the United States and their
cooking styles, but also how those cuisines went mainstream and became
part of American cooking in general and, thereafter, became part of global
cuisine. Specifi cally, you will discover that the narrowing of the menu, using
familiar ingredients, and then marketing explain how Americans became
such avid consumers of ethnic cuisines.

Immigration’s Effect on Food
 In the course of the 19th century, the population of Europe more
than doubled—from 188 million to about 432 million. The largest
concentration of migration occurred between 1815 and 1932, when
immigration quotas were imposed. About 60 million people left
Europe and went to North and South America, Australia, and New
Zealand. The population of North America (including Canada) went
from 6 million to 81 million, largely due to immigration.

 In Europe, the population explosion led to increased pressure on
land in terms of serious crowding. Usually, a generation after a
sharp spike in population, the children born in these baby booms
had no other recourse but to leave. The largest exodus was from
precisely those places that were not yet industrialized, where there
were no big factories and teeming cities in which to fi nd work—or
new colonies to fi nd administrative jobs or running plantations.

 The sharpest rise in emigration from Europe also came at the
very end of the 19th and early 20th centuries. This was partly due
to climactic changes and crop failure. There was also a phylloxera
epidemic in wine-growing regions. In addition, it was physically
possible to travel long distances via steamship.
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