Food: A Cultural Culinary History

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some water, leaving it in a sunny spot, and waiting until they just begin to
sprout. Turn them around every now and then, drain off the liquid, and replace
it if it begins to smell a bit. They should stay moist during germination. This
should only take a few days. Once you see them sprout, dry them off, and
place them in the sun to dry completely. If you want a darker brew, toast a
few of the grains gently and add to the rest. Then, break everything up in a
large mortar. You want small pieces, but not powder.


Next, heat the grain in water at about 140 degrees, and maintain that
temperature for an hour. Strain this into another pot, and pour some more hot
water over just to release the last bit of sugars in the mash. Now is the fun
part. Cover the pot with a cheesecloth, and let it ferment at room temperature.
Wild yeasts will invade, and it will start to bubble in a few days. Taste it
periodically; it will probably be a little sour, thick, and of course still room
temperature. That’s ancient beer—fairly low in alcohol but refreshing. If you
insist, strain it again, funnel into bottles, and refrigerate.

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