Food: A Cultural Culinary History

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Lecture 7: Ancient India—Sacred Cows and Ayurveda


Making Ghee
Among the explicit food taboos in ancient India, there were a few substances
considered absolutely pure. Ghee, a kind of clarifi ed butter, is one of those. It
was used in sacrifi ce, and because it is made from cows’ milk, it is considered
among the most nourishing substances on Earth. There are also very practical
reasons why ghee is used in India; it is practically imperishable, even in
intense heat. You can even fry in it.

Take a pound of butter, and place it in a pot on the lowest possible heat—
or even in the oven at about 200 degrees. Let it slowly simmer without
disturbing. After foaming up briefl y, the excess water will evaporate, and the
milk solids will come together and eventually will precipitate to the bottom
of the pot. Unlike clarifi ed butter, this gives the ghee a deep, nutty fl avor.
Simply pour off the clear fat, and store in a jar. Discard solids.

A Recipe Using Ghee
Unlike in the West, spices in the East are always gently toasted before
cooking, which brings out the fl avor, and then ground fresh. This recipe is
vegetarian and could be eaten by any caste, as long as it was prepared by
someone of the same caste.

In a small iron skillet, dry toast spices, including coriander, cumin,
cinnamon, and pepper. Be careful not to let them burn. Transfer to a mortar
or spice grinder, and reduce to a powder. Add to this ground turmeric and
fenugreek. This is a simple spice mix, and every family has their own; these
mixes are often extremely complex, which is not surprising because may of
these spices are native. Next, cut up an eggplant, leaving the skin intact. Heat
some ghee in a pot, and add the spice mixture and the eggplant pieces. Leave
to stew very gently until the eggplant has cooked through and is tender. For
observant Brahmans, onions would be left out, but they are actually a very
tasty addition.

Culinary Activity
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