Baghdadi Recipe
This recipe is an adaptation of one appearing in the Kitab al-Tabikh (“Book
of Dishes”) by Muhammad b. al-Hasan b. Muhammad b. al-Karim, translated
by Charles Perry as A Baghdad Cookery Book (p. 98). It dates to the 13th
century. It is what we would today call taffy. Keep in mind when making this
that we inherited our sweet tooth directly from medieval Islam.
Halwa Yabisa
Start with sugar dissolved in water and boiled until it thickens. This should be
at what is called the “hard ball” stage, which you can determine by dropping
a little bit of the dissolved sugar from a spoon into ice water. (Don’t touch
it with your fi ngers until after it’s in the water.) A fi rm but still malleable
ball should form. If you have a candy thermometer, it should be about 260
degrees Fahrenheit. Pour the thick syrup onto a marble counter or a smooth
platter. Drive a large nail into the wall, and when cool enough to touch, fold
the taffy over the nail and pull. Repeat until it is shiny, white, and opaque.
Knead into it pistachios (or crushed almonds or sesame seeds). Cut it up into
strips or triangles. It can also be colored with saffron or cinnabar, though the
latter is toxic because it contains mercury. Red food coloring would be better
than historic authenticity in this case.
Culinary Activity