NewYork at Albany found synthetic musks in most breast milk samples collected in Massachusetts in
2007 in concentration of “five times greater than the concentrations reported 10 years ago for breast
milk samples collected in Germany and Denmark” (Reiner et al. 2007). Synthetic musks, along with
bisphenol-A, phthalates, fire retardants, aluminium, and paraben preservatives, are classified as
xeno-estrogens, synthetic compounds that mimic the action of the hormone beta-estradiol and
activating the estrogen receptors (Singleton et al. 2004). Xenoestrogens are linked to reproductive
and fertility problems, as well as breast and uterine cancer in women (Donovan et al. 2007) and
testicular cancer in men (Irvin 2000).
Today, the European Union has banned the use of some nitromusks in cosmetics and personal care
products. In the United States, all musk chemicals are unregulated, and safe levels of exposure have
not yet been set.
Some plants, such as garden angelica (Angelica archangelica) and ambrette seeds (Abelmoschus
moschatus), produce musky-smelling aromatic compounds that are widely used in natural perfumery
as substitutes for natural musk. Other plant sources of musk include musk flower (Mimulus
moschatus) and the muskwood (Olearia argophylla) of the Guianas and West Indies. So if you are
very partial to musk, choose a botanical musk fragrance from a reputable green fragrance brand.
SHOULD YOU LOVE OR HATE YOUR PERFUME?
An Interview with Serge Lutens
French photographer, stylist, perfumer, and fashion designer Serge Lutens was a creative director for
Shiseido and now creates perfumes under his own name sold in Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido in
Paris. He uses only natural ingredients and classical techniques in his fragrant masterpieces, such as
Sa Majeste la Rose, Santal Blanc, and Douce Amere, which have an extraordinarily devoted
following among celebrities and fragrance connoisseurs worldwide. Serge Lutens spoke to us from
his home in Morocco:
On life choices: “Perfumery was not a conscious choice. It was perfumery that picked me. The
powerful desire for making perfumes dates back to my first voyage to Morocco, in 1968, when I
smelled aromatic waxes, precious woods.... I did not know at that time if I would ever be able to
turn this desire into reality.”
On breaking the rules: “My first perfume was Nombre Noir, created in 1982. At the time, the black-
on-black packaging had created a small revolution in the world of perfumery. My idea was to remove
gold plating, decorations, and all those lavish ornaments that made me feel that perfumery was
becoming fake and more about the embellishment than the scents. Black packaging creates an emotion,
and today has become a classic design. The juice in itself—to create a contrast— was based on an
aroma of white flowers. At that time, my tastes in perfumes were not well defined. Yet, ten years
later, in 1992, a new revolution occurred, this time olfactive, with the launching of Feminite Du Bois,
a feminine perfume based on masculine cedar. This perfume became a legend.”
On inspiration: “I do not know if one can speak about inspiration when it comes to perfume creation.
Some of my perfumes were inspired by literature and music; others were inspired by plants. A
perfume must always awaken a memorable feeling and reconstitute your personal universe. In Datura
Noir I tried to create a violent, dominating atmosphere that would evoke images of decadent nights
with the bitter aroma of almonds. The first scent I clearly remember goes back to my childhood years