The Green Beauty Guide: Your Essential Resource to Organic and Natural Skin Care, Hair Care, Makeup, and Fragrances

(Greg DeLong) #1

A typical perfume contains a mixture of fragrance chemicals (often between 50 and 100) produced
from coal tar and petroleum distillates or plants and herbs. In terms of “greenness,” the fragrance
industry is unique: scented, natural, and synthetic ingredients can be equally harmful. But while
organically derived aromatic alcohols can irritate skin, make you sneeze, or trigger existing eczema
or asthma, benzene derivatives, aldehydes, phenols, phthalates, and many other fragrant toxins are
capable of causing cancer, birth defects, and central nervous system disorders. These substances can
get into the body by being absorbed through the skin and when inhaled.


Studies constantly reveal new irritating fragrance ingredients. Some of the oldest known toxic
synthetic fragrances are nitromusks, such as musk ambrette, musk xylene, and musk ketone. In clinical
studies dating back to the 1980s, musk ambrette has caused eczema, jawline dermatitis, acute contact
dermatitis, and chronic actinic dermatitis (Wojnarowska, Calnan 1986). The use of nitromusks in
cosmetics has been banned, but synthetic musks are still found in musk-scented incense candles and
may be lurking under the vague name “fragrance” in popular scented products.


Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde (also known as Lyral) is the most allergic
fragrance chemical currently used. It caused contact dermatitis and eczema in 79 percent of
participants in a recent study. Lyral irritated the skin of even healthy people who were not prone to
allergies (Baxter et al. 2003). Lyral is currently listed as an allergen but is contained in many of the
popular fragrances as well as every other deodorant on the drugstore shelf.


Benzyl alcohol, an aromatic substance naturally found in essential oils including jasmine, hyacinth,
and ylang-ylang, may cause various toxic effects, such as respiratory failure, very low blood
pressure, convulsions, and paralysis. However, to cause real damage, it has to be used in high
concentrations. Benzyl alcohol was used up to 0.9 percent as a preservative in neonatal medications,
but after sixteen newborns died of acute toxic poisoning in 1982, benzyl alcohol was banned for use
as a preservative. In spite of this, as a fragrance ingredient, and possibly a preservative, it is
currently used in popular moisturizers, facial cleansers, aftershaves, and baby wipes and lotions. For
more information, check http://www.thegreenbeauty guide.com.


As I was writing this chapter, I could not help but feel a tiny bit smug. Perhaps I am not a very bad
mom, I thought. I do not use fragrances at home. I am feeding my baby organic food and homemade
purees; she drinks her organic formula from glass bottles and sleeps on organic cotton sheets. Her
mattress is pure wool. There is no chance she would be exposed to such a horrible substance as
benzyl alcohol.Yeah, right. Just as I finished writing this chapter, something clicked inside my head. I
went to our nursery and picked up the pack of baby wipes. These award-winning wipes contained
benzyl alcohol as the third ingredient, right after water and glycerin. I sent a letter to the manufacturer
of these wipes giving them specific research on how dangerous these baby wipes can be. The
manufacturer responded with a canned letter that defended their use of benzyl alcohol as a
disinfectant but promised they would revise the formula someday soon. Needless to say, we
abandoned all wipes made by this brand, and instead I brew a cupful of organic chamomile tea, pour
it in a spray bottle, and use it with a plain cotton face towel to gently cleanse my daughter’s bum.
Please note that some babies (and adults, too) are allergic to chamomile, so if you have a family
history of allergies, always perform a patch test before using any herbal infusions, flower distillates,
or essential oils.


Lesson learned: never assume anything. Just because a company makes chlorine-free, plastic-free,
disposable diapers and packs them in smart bags with handwritten letters and cute baby faces, it does

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