Speak the Culture: Spain: Be Fluent in Spanish Life and Culture

236

1. Identity: the
   building blocks of
   2. Literature
   and philosophy
   3. Art and
   architecture
   4. Performing
   arts
   5. Cinema
   and fashion
   6. Media and
   communications
   7. Food and drink 8. Living culture:
   the details of

Hip parade: Spain and its famous Farthingale

Traditionally, Spain has held a pragmatic approach to

fashion but it did enjoy a period of trendsetting back in

the early modern era.The 16thand 17thcenturies

represented a golden time for the Spanish look, with

Iberian styles adopted by royal courts across Europe.

Spain’s MasterTailor, Juan de Alcega, set the tone in 1589

with the publication of hisTailor’s Pattern Book(orLibro

de Geometría, Práctica yTraca). On occasion, Spain only

seemed to throw its hat into the fashion ring by mistake.

Such was the case with the Spanish Farthingale. In the

late 15thcentury, Spanish tailors combined an iron-hinged

armour that flattened the body beneath gowns (the world’s

first corset) with a boned, high-waist petticoat. Spain’s

economic and political dominance at the time saw the style adopted by the

aristocracy across Europe; Catherine of Aragon apparently introduced the

Spanish Farthingale to the English court in 1501. So far, so straight forward.

However, the Farthingale’s success may belie its original function. According

to legend it was born when Queen Isabel ordered hoops to be placed within

her gowns to conceal a pregnancy.

Costume dramas: bullfighting andflamenco

The iconic (if somewhat tight and loud) outfit of the matador has become a

symbol of Spain. Inspired by 18thcentury Andalusian clothing, thetraje de

luces(suit of lights) design has barely changed since it was first created.

To get the look you need five accessories: amonterahat;zapatillas(leather

slippers); acapote(cape); themuleta(smaller red cape used in the final act);

and theestoque(sword). A matador is expected to have as least six

differenttrajes de luceseach season, the designs for which can be deeply

intricate. Nowadays, each part of the outfit can cost thousands of pounds

to manufacture or buy, with antique versions selling as collectors’ items.

That other Andalusian drama,flamenco,alsohasitsowncolourfuluniform.

The traditional costume for women is a shawl, a long frillybata de coladress

and a fan. Male dancers often wear a flat Cordoban hat and tight black trousers.

The word ‘farthingale’
is a muddled version
of the Spanish word
verdugados, meaning
twigs – or more
specifically the hoops
of willow and cane used
to hold petticoats rigid.

Not seeing red
While the deep red of
the matador’smuleta
cape is striking, it’s of
little import to goading
the bull – the animals
are colour blind.

5.2.1 Fashion sense: designers, costumes

and global empires