266- Identity: the
building blocks of
2. Literature
and philosophy
3. Art and
architecture
4. Performing
arts
5. Cinema
and fashion
6. Media and
communications
7. Food and drink 8. Living culture:
the details of
Foreign perceptions of Spanish food have been dulled
by tourist fodder – by blandpaellasand lumps of
indeterminate oily meat. What a shame, because Spain
has a rich, rewarding culinary repertoire of which the
Spanish themselves are justifiably proud. No wonder
they’re digging ever deeper into their pockets to satisfy
the daily craving, spending more money per capita
onla comidathan any other country in Europe. Full-on
flavours, fresh local produce and recipes that have
evolved from good peasant stock underpin an inherent
simplicity at the Spanish table. However, the times they
are a-changin’ somewhat. A new generation of chefs
has emerged, fusing traditional Spanish ingredients
with contemporary flair. Ferran Adrià, owner of el Bulli in
Roses, Catalonia, is leading the charge, wrestling the
mantle of foodie excellence from French hands.First, a bit of history...
Spain’s cuisine, inevitably, is inseparable from the country’s varied ethnicand
cultural roots. Culinary traditions date back to the Phoenicians and Greeks –
the former introduced that small but heroic staple of the Iberian diet, the
olive, and the Romans would later export thousands of amphorae of olive
oil to Rome from Spain.The Romans in turn shared their vast knowledge
of viticulture and of preserving fish, an art form currently enjoying a revival.
Some of Spain’s most enduring culinary legacies, particularly the use of
spices, herbs and fruits in savoury dishes, stem from eight centuries of
Arab and Moorish rule.Trading with the Persians, the Arabs introduced
pomegranates, rice and aubergines from India, melons from Africa and figs
from Constantinople.The Moors also had a sweet tooth, a trait that most
Spaniards have inherited (they’re particularly partial to honey and almond-
laden desserts). In the 13thand 14thcenturies Spanish conquistadors
returned from the New World with potatoes, beans, courgettes and peppers,
all still store cupboard staples in kitchens across Spain. as used
by most other countries.
7.1.1 Life on the cutting edge: the Spanish kitchen
44 per cent of the
world’s olives are
produced in Spain.
Spain has more than
120 Michelin stars.