294- Identity: the
building blocks of
2. Literature
and philosophy
3. Art and
architecture
4. Performing
arts
5. Cinema
and fashion
6. Media and
communications
7. Food and drink 8. Living culture:
the details of
i. Northern Spain
The vineyards of Spain’s top third produce many of the
country’s best wines. Along the green northernmost
strip the light whites seem distinctly unSpanish, but
stray a short distance inland and the full-blooded reds
are there to punch you in the palate. Galiciaproduces
the former in five DO regions, of which Rías Bajas is
the pick. Here the Albariño vine reigns, producing
delicate, peachy and sometimes lightly oaked varietals
considered by many to be the best whites in Spain.
The Basquelands have the three Chacolís DOs
producing small amounts of crisp, green white wine
from Hondarribi grapes that – trust the Basques – aren’t
really found anywhere else on Earth. The Basques also
produce small quantities of Cava and Rioja.South of the Basque Country you find Spanish wine’s
star region, Rioja. Most Rioja wine is blended, with
Te m p r a n i l l o t h e p r i m e c o n t r i b u t o r. T h e n o b l e g r a p e
gives the wine its aromatic, delicate flavours.
Tr a d i t i o n a l l y, t h e u s e o f A m e r i c a n o a k b a r r e l s h a s g i v e n
the wine a vanilla twang but this is waning, replaced
by French oak that imparts a less obvious coconut or
vanilla flavour. The region produces a lot of wine so
quality can vary despite the blanket DOCa standard,
although these days bad Riojas are rare. The most
mature vintages, the gran reservas, are complex and
full-bodied yet pleasingly soft, but the jovensare often
equally enjoyable, rare in their juvenile fullness. Three
sub-regions within Rioja – Alavesa, Alta and Baja – each
with a slightly different climate, all produce differing
wines. The Tempranillo content is higher in the cooler,
northern Alavesa region – wines here tend to be short-
lived but brilliantly fruity.Secrets of old age
The potentially
devastating phylloxera
virus struggles, not
unlike the grapes, with
the lukewarm climate of
the Basque Country’s
three Chacolís DO
regions. As a result some
of the regions’ vines are
over 80 years old.Elevated status
Vineyards in Galicia and
the Basque Country often
use pergolas to support
their vines. Being further
off the ground protects
from frost, while the
grapes are shaded by
leaves when the sun
really beats down.v4 SPAIN BOOK 27/3/08 10:05 Page 294