These two waste-to-energy options are promoted by the Government via the Renewables Obligations scheme, so
demand for wood waste as a fuel can be expected to grow in the UK. However, in contrast with recycling, these
alternatives do not reduce the demand for new timber and the pressure on forests.
4.7 Relevance of findings in the UK context for textiles..............................................................
The UK generates approximately 1.5-2 million tonnes per year (2006) of clothing waste (DEFRA, 2008 (c)).
Textiles represent about 3% by weight of a household bin. Textiles waste is currently the fastest-growing stream
in household waste and is forecast to continue increasing as sales of new clothing continue to rise (Waste on line,
2006; DEFRA, 2008 (c)). Around 25% of the textile waste is reused or recycled in the UK (Waste on line, 2006)
while the rest is mostly disposed of via landfills. This places the UK above the EU average since across Europe, an
estimated 15 to 20% of the potential existing tonnage is collected (Textile Recycling Association, 2005). Textile
reuse was not within the scope of the study but is in practice closely linked to textile recycling for post-consumer
clothing waste. One major characteristic of the textile waste sector is that it is dominated by charitable
organisations that collect the textile waste via drop-off containers (textile banks) or charity shops which are very
common through the UK. The main players in the UK are the Salvation Army and Oxfam. These charities collect
used clothing and sell it in charity shops or in developing countries in order to raise funds for development
projects. Clothes unsuitable for reuse are recycled in the UK or overseas into lower value products (e.g.
mattresses, wipes, carpet underlay, automotive components or niche clothing) (DEFRA, 2008 (c)). Table 97
shows the fates of the textiles collected by the Salvation Army and members of the Textile Recycling Association.
Table 97 Summary of fates of collected textiles, based on sruveys conducted by the Salvation Army (SATCoL) and members of the Textile
Recycling Association (TRA) in 2005 (Oakeden Hollins, 2006)Concerning the environmental benefits of the various options, the study revealed that there is a large lack of
LCAs focusing on the end-of-life of textiles. However, the review of the few studies investigating the
environmental impacts associated with textiles disposal highlighted that textile recycling brings substantial
benefits regarding energy consumption and climate change. The benefits are obtained by off-setting the
production of products from virgin fibres. The studies also pointed out that the second best option is incineration
with energy recovery while landfill disposal has the worst environmental profile.
Dealing with the climate change issue
In the UK, textile recovery, encompassing both recycling and reuse, also presents the advantage of diverting
waste from landfills. This is of major importance for natural fibres that decompose in landfills and generates
methane which is a heavy contributor to global warming. For natural fibres, avoiding landfill disposal via
incineration with energy recovery for instance should therefore be of a high priority if reuse or recycling is not
possible.
Lack of recycling technologies
Nevertheless, the potential for textile recycling is currently limited (excluding reuse) due to the lack of
technologies. For instance, the recycling of used clothing into new clothes is very marginal. In addition, no option
for textiles made from blended fibres is currently available. The equipment used to shred and convert clothes
back into fibres is not suitable for blended fibres and it is difficult to make new yarns out of mixed fibres. For
garments made from a mix between natural and synthetic fibres, it might be possible in the future to dissolve
natural fibres (e.g. cotton) to recover the synthetic ones (e.g. polyester) but this technology is not economically
feasible at present. Fibre separation technologies therefore need to be developed. There is also a need for
develop a demand for recycled products.