Night and Low-light Photography Photo Workshop

(Barry) #1

10


CHAPTER
NIGHT AND LOW-LIGHT PHOTOGRAPHY / Low-Light Landscapes


to the edge. This could include tree
branches, power lines, and bridges and
roads, depending on the angle of the image.


Curving lines. Curving lines are a great
way to keep a viewer interested in your
image because they lead the eye around the
image. These can include star trails and
curves in a road or even the patterns the
clouds or landscape makes.



■   Framing. Framing your image within a natural

frame can add a sense of depth, but more than
that, it can help to draw the viewer’s eye to
the main subject. For example, framing the
sunset with a pier or using a doorway or win-
dow to frame the subject works great, espe-
cially when the frame is darker than the
subject.


Once you have decided what to shoot, the next
step is to get the correct exposure, which is
explained in the next section.


Exposure considerations


Because you are shooting in low-light conditions,
one way to deal with potential exposure problems
is to use a wide aperture, which allows the most
light to pass through the lens. However, for land-
scapes, you most often want a deep depth of field,
so a wide aperture is not recommended. Going
back to the basics of composition, if you want a
deep depth of field, then you need a small open-
ing; this means that you need a higher ISO or
longer shutter speed to allow enough light to
reach the sensor to get a proper exposure. When
shooting the image in Figure 10-4 of the Golden
Gate Bridge in San Francisco, the wind was
incredibly strong, and so I used a wider aperture


Equivalent exposures are discussed
in more detail in Chapter 2.

x-ref

than I normally would so that I could use a
shorter shutter speed. It still took 2.5 seconds to
get the exposure, even at f/5.6.
Landscape photographs typically deal with large
areas, and during the day that can mean a very
big difference between the brightness of the sky
and the landscape below. Once the scene
becomes darker, it is actually easier to determine
the correct exposure because there is not as much
difference in brightness between the land and the
sky. This can occur right before sunrise or right
after sunset and during overcast or heavily cloudy
skies, which are all great times to photograph
landscapes. If you are photographing outdoors
during bad weather, make sure that you have the
proper clothing and protective gear for both you
and your camera and lens.
So, you are now set up to photograph your land-
scape, and it is time to get the right exposure set-
tings. There are two good options: the first is to
use manual mode and the second is to use aper-
ture priority mode. Both of these modes allow you
to set the aperture to get the desired depth of
field; the difference is that in manual mode, you
can set the shutter speed as well.
In aperture priority mode, the camera uses the
built-in light meter to read the light and then sets
the shutter speed for you. To get the results you
want, you need to make sure that the built-in
light meter reads the scene correctly. The spot
metering mode works well in this situation, as you
can make sure that the area that is most impor-
tant is the area being read by the light meter.
When using aperture priority, you can bracket
the exposures, which causes the camera to use a
series of different shutter speeds to first underex-
pose and then overexpose the same scene. This
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