Family Traveler

129Onourfamilyvisit,weheadedtoSeahousesharbourtofindtheSerenityFarneIslandBoatTourskiosk,wheretwosmileyGeordieladieshandedoverourprebookedtickets.WeboardedthesturdySerenityforthevoyageover,packedlunchessafelystowed,asyouwon’tfindanythingasdisruptiveasacaféontheseprotectedislands.Thesunburstfrombehindthecloudsandtheviewofthecoast,BamburghCastleandtheCheviotHillsisstunning.WeheadedacrossStapleSoundtoStapleIslandandThePinnacles.Attheheightofthebreedingseason,1, 000guillemotscanbeseenoneachpinnacle,isolatedrockstacksthatprotrude20mabovethewater.Theguideonboardtellsushowtheeggsjockeyforspaceonthetinyledges,whichiswhytheyarepointyatoneend,sotheyspinratherthanroll.Thewaterisbeautifulandclear,andit’saninspiringexampleofhowexotictheseasaroundourownislandcanbe.Puffinsareanincrediblesighthere,withtheirplumpbodiesandstripedbeaks.TheFarnesaretheirsummerbreedinggroundbeforetheydepartinAugustforthenorthcoastofScotland,thenontoIcelandforninemonths.Andthoughrisingseatemperatureshavedepletedstocksofsandeels,puffins’favouritefood,thesehardyfellowsremainaforce.Everyday,nineNationalTrustrangers,inpermanentresidence,balanceconservationwithadesiretoeducatethepublicabouttheseislandgems.Visitornumbershavebeenstrictlylimitedsince1971 .Just 400 privilegedhumansmakeittotheislandsdailyduringthehighseason.Aswesail,mykidssquealwithdelightastheyspygreyandcommonsealsbaskingontherocks.Ourguidetellsusscubadiverscometodivewiththeseals,whichcanholdtheirbreathfor 30 minutesandplummettodepthsof 75 m.Visibilitycanbeupto20m,andthesealslovediverstoscratchthem.We’reallowedashoreonInnerFarne,butonlyonwoodenwalkwaysandagrassypicnicareanearthelighthousethatdatesbackto 1825 .Wewandersafelypastsheercliffswhereshags,guillemotsandkittiwakenestsoclose,yourpicturesmakeyoulooklikeanaccomplishedwildlifephotographer.We’revisitinginlateJuly,whenthebabyArcticternsareabitolder,butgoearlierinthesummerandyouhavetowearprotectiveheadgear,asangryparentswillpeckyourheadwhileprotectingtheiryoung.It’sthisexhilaratingcloseproximitytonaturethatmakestheFarnessothrilling.Andit’snotjusttheFarneIslandsthatshouldbedrawingyouandyourkidshere.ThispartofNorthumberlandhasanewcoolaboutit.CoastalRetreats,brainchildofFionaMcKeith,hasrecognisedagapinthemarketforstylishself-cateringhouses,cottages,andflatsinthenorth-east,oftenmakingthemostoftheircoastalsettings.FionacantakeaveryaveragepebbledashsemiinthefishingvillageofCrasterLAZINGONA SUNNYAFTERNOONFarneresidentslollinfrontoftheLongstonelighthouse,whichdatesbackto 1826left:NORTHUMBERLANDWHERETOSTAYNookEndsleepssixandcostsfrom£1,299forsevennightsduringthesummerholidays.coastalretreats.co.uk``````WHATTODOSerenityFarneIslandsBoatToursFrom£13peradultand£9perchild(4-15).farneislandstours.co.uk``````NationalTrustmembersdonotpaytolandontheFarneIslands.Non-membersmustpaylandingfeestowardensuponlandingonInnerFarneandStapleIsland:InnerFarne:March,April,August,September&October–adult:£6.30,child£3.20,family:£15.80InnerFarne:May,June&July–adult:£7.40,child£3. 80 ,family:£19StapleIsland:May,June&July–adult:£7.40,child£3.80,family:£19``````BikesfromTheBikePlace,KielderWaterandForestPark.From£15,thebikeplace.co.uk``````AlnwickCastleAdult(17+years)£14.95;child(5- 16years)£7.60.alnwickcastle.com``````TheAlnwickGardenAdult£12. 10 ;child£4. 40alnwickgarden.com``````visitnorthumberland.comNORTHUMBERLANDCOAST:THELOWDOWNNORTHERNHIGHLIGHTSTakingintheviewatNewton-by-the-Sea.Above:ThecosyaccommodationatNookEndCottage``````scarletttriescinderella’sslipperforsize...itfits!