Family Traveler

75andGermanguests,allofwhom,inthesecondweekofSeptember,haveunder-fivesintow.Daysquicklyslipintoagentleroutine,beginningwithbreakfastsofwatermelon,figs,yoghurt,honey,toast,eggsandfreshlysqueezedpomegranatejuice(OK,andTurkey’sanswertoCocoPops),beforeaplayinthehotelpools,alunchofhomemadecumin-lacedmeatballswithbutteryriceandjuicytomatosalads,andanearlynap.Afternoonsarespentonthebeach,which,withthosekarst-likemountainsandwarm,clearwater,couldalmostbeThai,beforedinnersofsimplegrilledfishandoven-bakedhalvaatalantern-litbeachsiderestaurant.It’samagicalplace,whichfeelsamillionmilesfrommasstourism(therearecertainlynowristbandedgroupsdrinkingtheirbodyweightinbeer)–it’sjusthikers,familiesanddaytrippersfromAntalyaLAYINGONTHEBEACHÇiralibeachisanimportantturtlenestingsite,oneofjust 20 inTurkey;below:thepoolareaatHotelAzurHILLSONFIREAtChimaera,sulphurousflamesburstfromtherockyground``````COSYACCOMMODATIONAGardenVillaamongtheorangetreesatfamily-runHotelAzur``````landmark–its3.5kmbeach–andthemountainsthatrisejustafewhundredmetresbehinditarepomegranateandorangegroves,smallmarketgardensandorchards.Forkicks,thereareboattripstodesertedbeachesorGreco-Romanruins,riverpoolswhereyoucanswim(withincyclingdistance),andtoddler-friendlytractor-busridestonearbyChimaera,wheresulphurousflamesself-combustfromtherockyhillside.Ifyou’retherein``````AugustorSeptember,there’sachanceyou’llseethehatchingofbabyseaturtlesastheytaketheirmarathonfirststepsfromnestingsitesonthebeachtothesea.Westumbleonthisinformationalmostbychance,bookingourtripnotbecauseofthisextraordinaryphenomenon,butbecauseafriendrecommendedÇiraliastheplacefortheperfecttoddler-friendlyholiday.Whichitcertainlyis.Webookedthefamily-runHotelAzur,andfoundourselvessharingitwithamixofDutchturkeyit’samagicalplace,whichfeelsamillionmilesfrommasstourism