10 DATE WITH THE GODS
dismal day suited my mood. I felt like a rag; I had a
hangover, complete with a splitting headache and que
asy stomach.
After I had been driving for about 45 minutes, the
weather changed. The sun came out and with it ap
peared blue water, beautiful green valleys and small
villages with grazing cattle and happy natives working in
the fields. I began to feel better immediately.
I stopped at a small village and had an Alka Seltzer
with mineral water to ease my stomach. I later dis
covered that this beautiful spot was the beginning of the
Andes Mountains. The refreshing, clean air was a real
treat to my lungs.
The people at the restaurant told me I had another six
to seven hours driving time to Huancayo, which was
about ISO miles further. Since I had already covered 75
miles in one hour and a half it didn't make any sense that
it would take six hours to cover^225 miles. But I soon
found out why. As I continued my drive toward Huan
cayo, the road began to deteriorate with large holes,
bumps and ruts. All I could see was a road winding like an
endless serpent into the high peaks of the Andes
Mountains.
When I passed a small mining village, a sign indicated
the altitude was 3,746 meters, 11,238 feet above sea
level. The altitude was getting to me, but the worst was
yet to come. The higher I went, the sicker I became. I was
dizzy, nauseous and my murderous headache returned. I
stopped at a nearby mining center, Casapalca, where I
was given oxygen. I wasn't sure if the altitude was
bothering me or if I was still suffering the effects of the
hangover. A nurse at the center assured me that even
people who never drink get the worst kind of altitude
sickness in that part of the Andes.
Ticlio, a cold, barren spot is the highest point of the
Lima-Huancayo drive. A ra ilroad crossing intersects the