2019-09-01_Lonely_Planet_Traveller

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LESSONSINDESIGN

TEAR OUT GUIDE

PHOTOGRAPH:

TOVE

FREIJ/VISIT

STOCKHOLM.

WITH CONTRIBUTIONS

FROM

BECKY

OHLSEN,

CHARLES

RAWLINGS-WAY

STOCKHOLM

INNUMBERS

DATEOFBIRTH:

Probably 1252

butpossibly1187,when

BirgerJarlhada fort

constructedon

Helgeandsholmen

isletto protectSweden

fromsearaids

SIZE:

73

squaremiles

POPULATION:

962,000

NUMBEROFISLANDS

INSTOCKHOLM

ARCHIPELAGO:

30,000

LENGTHOFDAYLIGHT

ATMIDSUMMER:

18 hours,

16 minutes

Summer in

Stockholm

ESSENTIALS... The Stockholm Pass covers bus and boat tours, and more than 60 attractions (from £62; stockholmpass.com)

Asmuchmuseumas

shop,SvensktTennis

hometo thefabrics

andfurnitureof Josef

Frankandhispeers.

A visitis a greatway

to geta handleon

whatpeoplemeanby

‘classicSwedish

design’(svenskttenn.se).

BERGIANSKA

TRÄDGÅRDEN

bergianska.se

Thisexpansivebotanicalgarden

borderstheuniversityonone

sideandBrunnsvikenlakeonthe

other.StrollamongrareSwedish

flora,thenrelaxwithlunchor

fika(coffeeandcake)at thecafé

in theOrangeriet.Don’tmiss

Victoriahuset,a greenhousebuilt

in 1900 to displaythegiant

waterliliesit’snamedfor.

DJURGÅRDEN

Adreamyislandof fairy-tale

woods,cyclepathsandcultural

riches,a merefootbridgeaway

fromthecitycentre.Thisformer

royalhuntinggroundis where

you’llseethe17th-centuryVasa

warship,andvintageSwedish

abodesin theopen-airmuseum

Skansen(seeright).Thewhole

islandis a picnicker’sdream;

bringa towelor blanket,a novel

anda swimsuitandlounge away

a sunny afternoon.

EVERTTAUBESTERRASS

Riddarholmen

Atranquilspot,andoneof the

bestviewpointsin Stockholm,

withopensightlinesacrossLake

Mälarento StockholmCityHall

andSödermalm’scoastline.

Sunsetis thetimeto come.Taube

wasa composerwhogrewup

ontheGothenburgarchipelago,

immortalisedin a joyfulstatue

atthecornerof thepark.

GAMLASTAN

Theoldtownis Stockholm’s

historicalandgeographical

heart,its lanestwistingpast

Renaissancechurches,Baroque

palacesandromanticsquares.

Thesecobblestoneshaveseenit

all,fromkingsonhorsebackto

massbeheadings.Nowadays,

thenarrowlanesareperfect for

agentlesummeramble.

SKANSEN

skansen.se

Theworld’sfirstopen-air

museum,Skansenwasfounded

in 1891byArturHazeliusto give

aninsightintohowSwedesonce

lived.Around 150 traditional

housesandotherexhibitsdotthe

hilltop;it’smeantto be‘Sweden

in miniature’,completewith

nature,villages,commerceand

industry.Dailyactivitiestake

placeonSkansen’sstages,

includingfolkdancingin summer

andanenormouspublicfestival

onMidsummer’sEve.

FJÄDERHOLMARNA

fjaderholmslinjen.se

A tripto theFeatherIslands

takesabout 25 minutesfrom

Stockholm,andis a fantasticway

to geta tasteof thearchipelago.

Youcanswim,sunbathe,admire

old boats, and visit a brewery.

LÅNGHOLMENKAJAK

langholmenkajak.se

Thiscompanysituatedideally

at theedgeof Långholmen

rentsoutkayaksandrunsguided

toursof abouttwohours(book

a fewdaysahead).Thewebsite

suggestsgoodroutesto take

dependingonskilllevels and

timeavailable.

CAFEJÄRNTORGET

Västerlånggatan 81

JustoffJärntorget,thisbusy

ice-creamshopreliablyoffers

suchquintessentiallySwedish

flavoursas liquorice(lakrits)

andforestberries(skogsbär).

ROSENDALS

TRÄDGÅRDSKAFÉ

rosendalstradgard.se

Setamongthegreenhousesof

a prettybotanicalgarden,

Rosendalsis anidyllicspotfor

pastriesandcoffeeor lunchand

a glassof organicwine.Thebrief

menuof soups,sandwiches(such

as lambburgerwithchanterelles)

andsaladsis basedonhome-

grownbiodynamicproduce.

SNAPSBAR& RESTAURANT

snapsbar.se

Oneof Stockholm’smain

suntraps,Snapsis onthe

well-lovedMedborgarplatsen.

Stockholmersswarmto its

outdoorbarareain thewarmer

monthsto makethemost of the

long summer nights.

Stockholmerscalltheircity

‘beautyonwater’.Yet,despite

itswell-preservedhistoric

core,Stockholmis nomuseum

piece– it’smodern,dynamic

andever-evolving.Goin

summer,whenthedaysare

long and everyone’s outdoors.

Picnicbythe

water’sedge

in Östermalm

Trythe

saffronand

honey