2019-09-01_Lonely_Planet_Traveller

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PHOTOGRAPH:

JEAN-JOACHIM

CRASSOUS/500PX. WITH

CONTRIBUTIONS

FROM

GREGOR

CLARK

AND

MARTINA

GILI

MONACO

INNUMBERS

DATEOFBIRTH:

1297

whenGrimaldirulebegan,

thoughtheareawas

probablysettledby

PhocaeanGreeksduring

the 6th centuryBC

SIZE:

0.85

square miles

POPULATION:

38,400

LIFEEXPECTANCY:

89.3

years(thehighest

in the world)

RATIOOF

MILLIONAIRES:

30%

of population

Budget

Monaco

ESSENTIALS... Double room in a budget hotel around £100 // Pasta, pizza or food from market £14–£23 // visitmonaco.com

TheArtenCielfestival,

a battleof pyrotechnic

expertise,lightsupthe

portareaforfour

Saturdaysin Julyand

August.Thewinner

doesthefireworksfor

Monaco’snational

holiday(monaco-

feuxdartifice.mc).

COLLECTIONDE

VOITURESANCIENNES

mtcc.mc

Startingin theearly1950s,

car-madPrinceRainieramassed

anarrayof morethan 100

classicautomobiles,ondisplay

since1993.TheyincludeFerraris,

Maseratis,Lamborghinisand

F1andrallycars,alongwith

theLexusthatcarriedthecurrent

princeto hisweddingin 2011.

Themuseumwillmoveto a new

purpose-builthomeby the

harbourin 2020.

CRIQUECIAPPAIRA

Thisminusculehiddencoveat

thefootof Le Rocheris reached

bya steepstaircasenearthe

ParkingdesPêcheurs.Tuckedup

againstcliffsanda stone

retainingwall,theshinglebeach

hereis onlyabout20mlong,but

there’senoughspaceto laya

towelandtakea dipin theMed,

andit’sa rarepleasureto finda

place so secluded in Monaco.

JARDINJAPONAIS

AvenuePrincesseGrace

Sandwichedbetweenbuilt-up

MonteCarlo,Larvottoandthe

Med,thefree-to-enterJardin

Japonaisis intendedas a piece

of paradise.Quietpond-side

contemplationis encouraged.

LE ROCHER

Thecobblestonestreetsof Le

Rocher,Monaco’sOldTown,

aretoppedbythePalaisPrincier

deMonaco,hometo theroyal

GrimaldiFamily,anddating

backto 1215.Onlythestate

apartmentsareopento the

public,or youcancatch

thechangingof theguardat

precisely11.55ameachday.

Theflower-coveredgravesof

PrinceRainierIII andPrincess

Gracecanbeseennearby

at theCathédraledeMonaco.

PLAGEDULARVOTTO

AtMonaco’snortheasternedge,

thissandycrescentdottedwith

beachchairsandumbrellas,

crisscrossedwithvolleyballnets

andbackedbya palm-fringed

boardwalkis a favouritesummer

hang-out.It’sfreeto visit.

MARCHÉDELA

CONDAMINE

facebook.com/

marche.condamine

Thefoodcourtbeneaththe

archesbehindtheopen-air

placed’Armesmarket

specialisesin Monegasque

cookingandregionalproduce.

ChezRogersellssuperb

takeawaysocca(a thin,crispy

chickpeapancake),fora couple

of euros.Otherbudgethits

includefreshpastafromMaison

desPâtes,andpizzaand

seafood from Le Comptoir.

PIERREGERONIMI

36 bdd’Italie

Abitof a local’ssecret:

Monaco’sbesticecreamsand

sorbets,madebytheeponymous

Corsicanmaîtreglacier.The

flavoursareexciting– try

chestnut,beetroot,matchatea

or honeyandpinenut– andfor

evenmoreindulgence,askforit

to beservedcocktail-stylein

a littleglass.MrGeronimialso

makesdeliciousice-creamcakes

andpatisseries.Don’t say we

didn’twarnyou...

BRASSERIEDEMONACO

facebook.com/

brasseriedemonacomc

ThisbardownbyLa Condamine

is Monaco’sonlymicrobrewery,

andits organiclagersandales

packthepuntersin.Insideit’sall

chrome,steelandbig-screen

TVs,andlivesportandDJskeep

theweekendsextrabusy.Fora

morechilledexperience,head

fortheportsidepatio.Happy

houris from6pmto 8pm.

L’ORANGERIE

orangerie.mc

Thebrainchildof expatriate

DublinerPhilipCulazzo,

L’Orangerieis anartisanal

liqueurmadewithbitteroranges

harvestedfromthecitrustrees

liningsomeof Monaco’sstreets.

Graba tasteandbringhomea

bottlefromthecute-as-a-button,

bright-orange boutique.

Squeezedinto 220 hectares,

thecity-stateof Monacois

theworld’ssecond-smallest

country.Whatit lacksin size

it makesupforin attitude.

It’sjustaboutpossibleto visit

whilekeepinganeyeonyour

budget. We show you how.

Fontvieille

Harbour

viewedfrom

Le Rocher

Makesa

great

present