Food Biochemistry and Food Processing (2 edition)

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BLBS102-c25 BLBS102-Simpson March 21, 2012 13:23 Trim: 276mm X 219mm Printer Name: Yet to Come


474 Part 4: Milk

Table 25.4.Changes in Cheese During Ripening

Softening of the Texture, due to:
Proteolysis of the protein matrix, the continuous solid phase
in cheese
Increase in pH due to the catabolism of lactic acid and/or
production of NH 3 from amino acids
Migration of Ca to the surface in some cheeses, e.g.
Camembert
Decrease in Water Activity, due to:
Uptake of NaCl
Loss of water through evaporation
Production of low molecular weight compounds
Binding of water to newly formed charged groups, e.g.,
–NH 4 +or COO−
Changes in Appearance, e.g.:
Mould growth
Colour, due to growth ofBrevibacterium linens
Formation of eyes

Flavour Development, due to:
Formation of numerous sapid and aromatic compounds
Release of flavourful compounds from the cheese matrix due
to proteolysis
Changes in Functionality, e.g., Meltability, Stretchability,
Water-Binding Properties, Browning, due to:
Proteolysis
Catabolism of lactose

 Non-starter LAB (NSLAB): These are adventitious LAB
that contaminate the cheese milk at farm and/or factory.
Traditionally, cheesemakers relied on NSLAB for acid pro-
duction during curd manufacture; this is still the case with
some minor artisanal varieties but starter LAB are now used
in all factory and most artisanal cheesemaking operations.
Most NSLAB are killed by HTST pasteurisation and curd
made from good-quality pasteurised milk in modern en-
closed equipment has only a few hundred NSLAB, mainly
mesophilic lactobacilli, per gram at the start of ripening.
Indeed, only a limited number of species of mesophilic
lactobacilli grow in cheese curd. However, those NSLAB
that are present, grow at a rate depending mainly on the
temperature to 10^7 –10^8 cfu/g within about 3 months. In
cheese made from raw milk, the NSLAB microflora is more
diverse and reaches a higher number than in cheese made
from pasteurised milk; the difference is probably mainly
responsible for the more intense flavour of the former com-
pared to the latter. This situation applies to all cheese vari-
eties that have been investigated and the NSLAB dominate
the viable microflora of cheese ripened for>2 months.
 Secondary cultures: Most cheese varieties develop a sec-
ondary microflora, which was originally adventitious but
now develops mainly from added cultures. Examples are
Propionibacteria freudenrichiisubsp.shermanii(Swiss
cheeses),Penicillium roqueforti(Blue cheeses),Penicil-
lium camembertiandGeotrichium candidum(Camem-
bert and Brie),Brevibacterium linens, Arthrobacterspp.,

Corynebacteriumand yeasts (surface smear-ripened cheese)
and citrate-positiveLc. lactisandLeuconostocspp. (Dutch-
type cheeses). Most of the microorganisms used as sec-
ondary cultures are very active metabolically and many
secrete very active proteolytic and lipolytic enzymes. Con-
sequently, they dominate the ripening of varieties in which
they are used. Traditionally, a secondary culture was not
used for Cheddar-type cheese but it is becoming increas-
ingly common to add an adjunct culture, usually selected
mesophilic lactobacilli (equivalent to adding a NSLAB
population), to accelerate ripening, intensify flavour and
perhaps tailor-make flavour. Essentially, the objective is to
reproduce the microflora, and consequently the flavour, of
raw-milk cheese. It is also becoming more common to add
Str. thermophilusas an adjunct culture for Cheddar cheese.
 Exogenous enzymes: For some varieties of Italian cheese,
for example Provalone and Pecorino varieties, rennet paste
is used as coagulant. The rennet paste contains a lipase,
PGE, in addition to chymosin; PGE is responsible for ex-
tensive lipolysis and the characteristic piquant flavour of the
cheese. Rennet extract used for most varieties lacks PGE.

During ripening, a very complex series of reactions, which
fall into three groups, occur:


  1. Glycolysis of lactose and modification and/or catabolism
    of the resulting lactate

  2. Lipolysis and the modification and catabolism of the re-
    sulting fatty acids

  3. Proteolysis and catabolism of the resulting amino acids


Glycloysis and Related Events Fresh cheese curd contains
approximately 1% lactose, which is converted to lactic acid
(mainly thel-isomer) by the starter LAB, usually within 24
hours. Depending on the variety, thel-lactic acid is racemised
todl-lactic acid by NSLAB, or catabolised to CO 2 and H 2 O
in mould-ripened and in smear-ripened cheese. In Swiss-type
cheese, lactic acid is converted to propionic and acetic acids,
CO 2 and H 2 ObyP. freudenrichiisubsp.shermanii;theCO 2 is
responsible for the characteristic eyes in such cheese.

Lipolysis Little lipolysis occurs in most cheese varieties, in
which it is catalysed by the weakly-lipolytic LAB or NSLAB,
and indigenous milk lipase if raw milk is used. Extensive lipoly-
sis occurs in some hard Italian-type cheeses, for example Proval-
one and Pecorino varieties, for which PGE is responsible, and in
Blue cheese, for whichP. roquefortiis responsible. Fatty acids
are major contributors to the flavour of Provalone and Pecorino
cheese and some may be converted to lactones or esters, which
have characteristic flavours. In blue-veined cheese, fatty acids
are converted to methyl ketones byP. roquefortiand these are
mainly responsible for the characteristic peppery taste of such
cheese. Some of the methyl ketones may be reduced to secondary
alcohols.

Proteolysis Proteolysis is the most complex and probably
the most important of the three primary ripening reactions for
the quality of cheese, especially internal bacterially ripened
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