Lake
Victoria
Kampala
Masaka
HarugongoHarugongo
UGANDA
The wind rattles the four-by-eight-foot metal
sheets that form the slanted walls of the giant
insect trap. A diesel generator roars a few yards
away, powering a 400-watt bulb at its center. The
light is blinding to human eyes, but it’s a magnet
for Ruspolia differens. In Uganda they’re com-
monly referred to as “grasshoppers” or nsenene
(en-SAY-nay-nay), but they’re actually cone-
headed bush crickets.
At the bottom of the metal sheets, dozens
of drums stand empty. Soon, hopes Kiggundu
Islam, chairman of the local bush cricket trap-
pers association, they’ll be filled with millions
of the nearly three-inch-long insects.
The “visitors,” as they’re called locally, come
together to mate and feed in huge swarms after
Muntadhar Nasif holds
bush crickets he caught
while helping a friend
with his trap. He used
to catch them as a
child, but today Nasif
makes a stable income
as a tour guide. He says
it’s too risky to get in
the nsenene trade, as
swarms are smaller and
less reliable than they
once were.
It’s a cold night,
and strong winds
are blowing
atop a hill in
southwest Uganda.
126 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC NGM MAPS