cooked for an hour in a litre of
Chablis, while the Provençals have
undergone the same process in salt
water, together with a large bunch
of thyme and a still larger quantity
of fennel. At that rate one might
impart the taste of wine or fennel
to chewing-gum.
‘It is therefore in the manner of
preparing them that personal
preferences are suited. The choice
of snails is of secondary
gastronomic importance. For
instance, in the case of a dainty
dish, the big Bourguignon is
preferable to the little grey kind
because the shell is thicker and