A Book of Mediterranean Food

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determine. The antient murena was
counted a great delicacy, and was
kept in ponds for extraordinary
occasions. Julius Caesar borrowed
six thousand for one
entertainment; but I imagined this
was the river lamprey. The murena
of this country is in no esteem, and
only eaten by the poor people.
Crawfish and trout are rarely found
in the rivers among the mountains.
The sword-fish is much esteemed in
Nice, and called l’empereur, about
six or seven feet long; but I have
never seen it.† They are very
scarce; and when taken, are
generally concealed, because the

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