A Book of Mediterranean Food

for my own choice of gastronomic
quotation, her final accolade was,
‘as further testimony to the unusual
quality of this book, it should be
added that it contains not one
reference to Brillat-Savarin’. It was
gratifying that a critic had noticed
what had indeed been a very
deliberate omission. The great sage
of gastronomy had been all very
well in his way – and in his day –
but it seemed to me that we had all
heard rather more than enough of
aphorisms like the one about a
meal without cheese being like a
pretty girl with one eye, and in
any case to a generation which had