Downstream

for hire, and a weather-beaten
boat called the Aquaholic is
up for sale for £2,000. The
water looks quite inviting in
the sun; I could easily just
step in, and at first it’s hard to
believe how packed this river
used to be back in its
Victorian heyday. But then
comes a sound like wooden
wings flapping, a loud shout
of ‘OK, guys!’ and five men
row past, followed by the
roars from those on another