Fine Woodworking 2007 Building Furniture

(National Geographic (Little) Kids) #1
P I N N E D R A B B E T
The rabbet is easy to make, but it’s not very
strong. It should be reinforced with some kind
of fastener, such as recessed screws, cut
copper nails, or wooden dowels or pegs, which
offer a clean, handmade look.

Rabbet should be half to
two-thirds as thick as the
drawer front.

T O N G U E A N D R A B B E T
Though it takes a few more tool setups, a
half-blind tongue and rabbet adds built-in
mechanical strength to the joint. For this
reason, it’s usually not necessary to reinforce
this joint.

Tongue adds mechanical
strength to resist pulling
forces.

D OV E TA I L E D R A B B E T
A dovetailed rabbet is stronger and more
attractive than a simple rabbet joint. This
type of corner joint also should be reinforced
with pegs, brads, or some kind of mechanical
fastener.

Pins hold joint secure
against pulling forces.

S L I D I N G D OV E TA I L
Sliding dovetails are a quick, strong joinery
option and often are used on drawers designed
with overlay fronts and on flush drawers that
use mechanical slides.

(^3) ⁄ 8 in. min.
(½ in. for
mechanical
slides)
F I N G E R J O I N T
The finger joint has a series of narrow knuckles
that lace together and offer plenty of long-grain
glue surfaces. Because the tool setups are the
same, if you use finger joints at the front of a
drawer, use them at the back, too.
Joint can be
reinforced
with small
pegs at the
top and
bottom.
B OX J O I N T
The box joint is the beefier cousin of the finger
joint. If you’re using box joints at the front of a
drawer, it’s efficient to use them at the back,
too, because tool setups are identical.
Joint can be
reinforced with
pegs at the top
and bottom,
or through the
front or sides.
H A L F - B L I N D D OV E TA I L
Many regard the half-blind version as the
king of dovetail joints. For concealed joinery
with superior strength, half-blinds are a good
choice.
Tails reach
about halfway
to two-thirds
of the way into
the pin board.
T H RO U G H - D OV E TA I L
If you like the look of exposed joinery, the
angled tails and pins of a through-dovetail
create a secure joint that resists pulling and
racking forces. Through-dovetails also can be
used at the back of a drawer.
L I P P E D H A L F - B L I N D D OV E TA I L
For overlay drawers with excellent strength, use
lipped half-blind dovetails. With this joint, the
front is rabbeted and joined to the sides with
dovetails.
The drawer
front is
rabbeted
on the top
and sides.
Front-corner
joints
The joinery at the front corners of a drawer determines the overall look and often differs from the joinery
at the rear corners. Below are nine common methods used to connect the front of a drawer to the sides.
Whether you’re looking for a quick joint that gets the job done or a long-lasting, hand-cut detail, there’s a
joinery option to fit your tastes, needs, and skills.
Tail portion,
or key, should
extend into
at least half
the thickness
of the drawer
front.
Joint
begins
and ends
with a
half-pin.
Drawer-front
edges can be
shaped with
a decorative
profile.
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