Additional Accent Hair Lights.Although it’s not necessary, I also use two ac-
cent hair lights, placed about seven feet high at the sides of the background and
angled down toward the middle of the set where the client will be posed. These
lights are used for women with longer hair, adding separation and a luminance
to the sides of the hair. These lights are also set to meter one stop less than the
main light.
Reflector Under the Subject.For many of my head and shoulders poses, I use
a reflector under the subject to bounce light back up from a lower angle. I cur-
rently use the Westcott Trifold reflector. For years, I used a drafting table cov-
ered with mylar, and before that I used a piece of foam-core board covered with
mylar—and both solutions provide a nice look if you’re on a budget. I like the
effect of having a light come from underneath a subject’s face, because it adds
highlights to the lips and a lower catchlight in the eyes. It also helps smooth the
complexion and lighten the darkness that most of us have under the eyes. Many
times, if the reflector seems to be getting in the way, I will replace it with a large
softbox on the floor.
High-Key Setups.Background Light.The auxiliary light for a high-key area
is basically a light to illuminate the white evenly. This actually isn’t that impor-
In this setup, you can see the Westcott Tri-
fold reflector placed in front of and below
the subject.