Hardware Hacking 73Now solder an identical set of resistors, capacitors and other components onto
the component side of the board, following their placement on the breadboard.
Use thin, insulated wire (solid or stranded) to make interconnections on the
board -- strip insulation off the ends, as you did to make the jumpers for the
breadboard; link points by running the wire along the component side of the
board, passing it through holes where appropriate, and solder to the pads. Make
sure the uninsulated ends of wire do not short against each other or adjacent
solder pads. Use stranded, rather than solid, wire for the pots, jacks and
photocells, so the wire can flex easily without breaking when you mount the
circuit in a case. Don’t forget that every jack needs signal connection and a
ground wire (Rule #10.)
If you use an exact clone of a breadboard (such as the Radio Shack board) it will
have ground and +9 volt buses you can wire to just like on the breadboard; if you
are working with another design you may have to create your own “virtual
buses” by linking the ground ends of all the capacitors and the chip ground
together with wire, for example. Solder the black wire of a 9 volt battery clip to
the ground bus on the circuit board. Solder the “NO” terminal of a toggle switch
to the +9 volt line (red wire) so you can turn the circuit on and off without
having to remove the battery, then solder a wire from the “C” terminal of the
switch to the board. Put the chip in the socket after all soldering is finished, and
check to make sure its orientation is correct (i.e., pin 14 goes to +9 volts, pin 7 to
ground, not backwards.)