Australia 17 - Adelaide & South Australia (Chapter)

(Romina) #1

Adel Aide & South Au


Str Ali A


FLEURIEU


PENINSULA


Adel Aide & South Au


Str Ali A


SIGHTS


&ACTIVITIES


Adel Aide & South Au


Str Ali A


VICTOR


HARBOR


motto here is ‘Coastal food hunted and gath-
ered for you’. Grab an organic coffee, a dozen
Kangaroo Island oysters, some locally caught
fish and chips, or raid the fridge for gourmet
cheeses, dips and olives. About 10km out of
Normanville along Hay Flat Rd are the pic-
turesque little Ingalalla ̈ Falls (follow the
signs from the Yankalilla side of town).
There’s not much at Cape ̈Jervis, 107km
from Adelaide, other than the Kangaroo
Island ferry terminal, and the start point
for the Heysen Trail (p716). Nearby, Deep ̈
Creek ̈Conservation ̈Park (www�environment�
sa �gov �au;  per  car  $10) has sweeping coastal
views, a wicked waterfall, man-size yakkas
(Xanthorrhoea semiplana tateana), sandy
beaches, kangaroos, kookaburras and bush
camping areas (per car from $13).
Off the road to Deep Creek Conserva-
tion Park are the curved roofs of the superb
Ridgetop ̈ Retreats (%08-8598 4169;  www �
southernoceanretreats�com �au;  d $245): three
corrugated-iron-clad, self-contained luxury
units in the bush, with wood heaters, leather
lounges and stainless-steel benchtops.

Victor Harbor
POP 11,500
The biggest town on the Encounter Coast is
Victor Harbor (yes, that’s the correct spell-
ing: blame one of SA’s poorly schooled early
Surveyor Generals). It’s a raggedy, brawling
holiday destination with three huge pubs
and migrating whales offshore. In Novem-
ber the grassy foreshore runs rampant
with teenage school-leavers blowing off
hormones at the Schoolies ̈Festival (www�
schooliesfestival�com �au).

1 ̈Sights ̈& ̈Activities
South ̈Australian ̈Whale ̈Centre ̈ MUSEUM
(%08-85510750;www �sawhalecentre�com; 2Rail-
way Tce;  adult/child/family $8/4/20;h10 �30am-
5pm) Victor Harbor is on the migratory path
of southern right whales (May to October).
The multilevel South Australian Whale Cen-
tre has impressive whale displays (includ-
ing a big stinky skull) and can give you the
low-down on where to see them. Not whale
season? Check out the big mammals in the
new 3D-cinema.

Horse-drawn ̈Tram ̈ TRAM
(www�horsedrawntram�com �au;  return adult/child/
family $8/6/22;hhourly 10am-4pm) Just off-
shore is the boulder-strewn Granite ̈Island,

connected to the mainland by a 632m cause-
way built in 1875. You can walk to the island,
but it’s more fun to take the 1894 double-
decker tram pulled by a big clydesdale.
Tickets available from the driver or visitor
information centre.

Encounter ̈Bikeway ̈ CYCLING
(www�tourismvictorharbor�com �au/walks_trails�
html) The much-wheeled Encounter Bikeway
extends 30km from Victor Harbor to Laffin
Point beyond Goolwa. The visitors centre
stocks maps; hire a bike from Victor ̈Har-
bor ̈Cycle ̈Skate ̈Bay ̈Rubber (%08-8552
1417;  www �victorharborcycles�com;  73  Victoria St;
bike hire per 4/8 hr $30/40;h9am-5pmMon &
Wed-Fri,10am-3pmSat &Sun).

Big ̈Duck ̈ BOATTOUR
(%0405  125  312;  www �thebigduck�com �au;
30min tours  adult/child/family $35/25/110, 1hr
$55/45/180) Do a lap of Granite Island and
check out seals, dolphins and whales (but
sadly not many penguins these days) on the
rigid inflatable Big Duck boat. Call for times
and bookings.

Encounter ̈Coast ̈Discovery ̈Centre ̈MUSEUM
(www�nationaltrust�org �au/sa;2FlindersPde; adult/
child/family$5/3/13;h1-4pm) Inside Victor’s
1866 Customs House on the foreshore, this
National Trust museum has interesting
local-history displays from pre-European
times to around 1900: whaling, railways,
shipping and local Aboriginal culture. Good
for a rainy day.

4 ̈Sleeping ̈& ̈Eating
Anchorage ̈ GUESTHOUSE$$
(%08-8552 5970; www �anchorageseafronthotel�
com; 21 FlindersPde; s/d/aptfrom $55/100/250;
i) This grand old seafront guesthouse is
the pick of the local crop. Immaculately
maintained, great-value rooms open off long
corridors. Most rooms face the beach, and
some have a balcony (you’d pay through
the nose for this in Sydney!). The cheapest
rooms are view-free and share bathrooms.
The cafe-bar downstairs is a winner.

Victor ̈Harbor ̈
Holiday ̈& ̈Cabin ̈Park ̈CARAVANPARK$
(%08-8552 1949;  www �victorharborholiday�com �
au; 19 Bay Rd; unpowered/poweredsites $30/36,
vans/cabinsfrom $52/85;aiW) The friend-
liest operation in town, with tidy facilities,
free barbecues and a rambling grassed area
to pitch a tent on. Runs rings around Vic-
tor’s other caravan parks.
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