Adel Aide & South Au
Str Ali A
OUTBACK
Adel Aide & South Au
Str Ali A
TOURS
Adel Aide & South Au
Str Ali A
VULKATHUNHA
-G AMMON
RANGES
NATIONAL
PARK
Immediately after Iga Warta just before the
national park is Nepabunna, an Adnyamath-
anha community that manages the local land.Vulkathunha-Gammon
Ranges National Park
Blanketing 1282 sq km of desert, the remote
Vulkathunha-Gammon ̈Ranges ̈National ̈
Park (www�environment�sa �gov �au) has deep
gorges, rugged ranges, yellow-footed rock
wallabies and gum-lined creeks. Most of the
park is difficult to access (4WDs are near
compulsory) and has limited facilities. The
rangers hang out at the Balcanoona ̈Park ̈
Office (%08-86484829,info line 08-82041910),
99km from Copley.
The area around Grindells Hut has ex-
pansive views and stark ridges all around.
You can reach it on a 4WD track off the
Arkaroola road, or by walking through Wee-
tootla ̈Gorge. It’s a 13km return hike − you
might want to stay the night at Grindells
Hut. Check with the ranger before driving or
walking into this area.
The park has six bush ̈camping (per per-
son/car$8/5) areas, including Italowie Gorge,
Grindells Hut, Weetootla Gorge and Arcoo-
na Bluff. Pick up camping permits at Balca-
noona Park HQ. There are two huts that can
be booked at the ranger’s office: Grindells ̈
Hut (up to 8 people $145) and Balcanoona ̈
Shearer’s ̈ Quarters (d/tr $40/65, exclusive
use up to 18 people$265).Arkaroola
A privately operated wildlife reserve–resort
129km east of Copley on unsealed roads,
Arkaroola ̈ Wilderness ̈ Sanctuary (%08-
8648 4848,1800 676 042; www �arkaroola�com �au)
S occupies a far-flung and utterly spectac-
ular part of the Flinders Ranges. The visi-
tor ̈ information ̈ centre (h9am-5pm) has
displays on local natural history, including
a scientific explanation of the tremors that
often shake things up hereabouts.
The absolute must-do highlight of Arka-
roola is the four-hour 4WD Ridgetop ̈Tour
(adult$120) through wild mountain country,
complete with white-knuckle climbs and de-
scents towards the freakish Sillers Lookout.
Once you’ve extracted your fingernails from
your seat, look for wedge-tailed eagles and
yellow-footed rock wallabies. You can also
book guided or tag-along tours (drives and
walks) through the area. Most areas are ac-cessible in a regular car, with some hiking to
pump up your pulse.
The resort (ArkaroolaRd Camp;unpowered/
poweredsites $18/25,cabins$40, cottages$130-
175, moteld$145-175;as) includes a motel
complex and caravan park. Camp sites
range from dusty hilltop spots to creekside
corners; the comfortable cabins are a good
budget bet. Other facilities include a woody
bar-restaurant (mains $15 to $30, serving
noon to 2pm and 6pm to 8pm), a supermar-
ket and service station.OUTBACK
The area north of the Eyre Peninsula and the
Flinders Ranges stretches into the vast, emp-
ty spaces of SA’s outback. If you’re prepared,
travelling through this sparsely populated
and harsh country is utterly rewarding.
Heading into the red heart of Australia
on the Stuart Hwy, Woomera is the first pit
stop, with its dark legacy of nuclear tests and
shiny collection of left-over rockets. Further
north, the opal-mining town of Coober Pedy
is an absolute one-off: a desolate human
aberration amid the blistering, arid plains.
If you’re feeling gung-ho, tackle a section of
the iconic Oodnadatta Track, a rugged out-
back alternative to the Stuart Hwy tarmac.
Along the way are warm desert springs, the
gargantuan Lake Eyre (Kati Thanda) and
some amazing old outback pubs.
Online, see http://www.flindersoutback.com.T ̈Tours
For scenic outback flights, see the Coober
Pedy, William Creek and Marree listings.Arabunna ̈Tours ̈ INDIGENOUS
(%08-8675 8351; www �arabunnatours�com �au;
7-day tour ex-Adelaide$1695) Aboriginal-owned
company offering cultural tours from Ad-
elaide to the Flinders Ranges, Marree, Ood-
nadatta Track and Lake Eyre.Just ̈Cruisin ̈4WD ̈Tours ̈INDIGENOUS
(%08-8383 0962; www �justcruisin4wdtours�com �
au; 5-daytour ex-Adelaide$3295) Aboriginal cul-
tural tours visiting outback indigenous com-
munities, sites and guides between Adelaide
and Coober Pedy.88 Getting ̈There ̈& ̈Around
AIR
Regional Express(Rex; www �regionalexpress�
com �au) Flies most days betweenAdelaideand
CooberPedy ($235,two hours)�