Robb Report - USA (2019-08)

60 AUGUST 2019

The Goods | STYLE

when a hand-delivered envelope

arrives containing an invitation to the

unveiling of Cartier’s new high-jewelry

collection in London, the answer is

invariably yes. Similar to an exclusive

artist’s preview, it’s a chance for

Cartier’s VIP clients to land a one-off

treasure before it even reaches the

boutique. And the 120-piece Magnitude

collection—named for its visual high

impact—didn’t disappoint.

For the first time, Cartier combined

fine precious gems with hard cut stones.

Some were the kind of geological

specimens one expects to see at the

Museum of Natural History: A 77-carat

matrix opal, which looked like it

fell from space with its electric-blue

bolts of light, was the centerpiece of

a cuff surrounded by blue and purple

sapphires. There won’t be another stone

like that one anytime soon. Another

unusual specimen, a huge rutilated

quartz, was the focal point of a pendant

surrounded by streams of diamonds,

coral and rosy pink morganite in the

colors of a sunset.

“The jewelry is bold in scale, but not

flashy,” says Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s

international director of image, style

and heritage. “The beauty is rather

subtle.” Taking a cue from luxury’s

more subdued aesthetic overall, Cartier

introduced these more earthy-looking

hard stones into the mix to give

serious pieces a sense of contrast and

playfulness. While the hard stones are

more common, Rainero explains, his

team hunts for the most exceptional

varieties of rutilated quartz and lapis

lazuli, most often sourced directly from

the miners at the annual Tucson gem

fair. This was most obvious in a strand

of gum-ball-size bright-blue lapis lazuli

beads from Afghanistan that was paired

unexpectedly with dazzling yellow,

orange and white diamonds.

It takes about two years to conceive

Cartier’s high-jewelry collections, which

are typically unveiled with great fanfare

at a formal gala at different destinations

around the world. This year, in keeping

with its unorthodox theme, Magnitude

was presented in late June at 180 The

Strand, a 1970s landmark building

lauded for its Brutalist architecture. The

austere setting was transformed into a

series of presentation rooms and several

small-scale salons for private viewings,

where international clients could try on

the marque’s latest creations—this is art

to be worn, after all. But don’t worry if

you weren’t among the few invited:

Cartier is adding more pieces to its

Magnitude collection, which will debut

in stores this fall. Jill Newman

Earthly

Delights

Cartier infuses bold

color and novelty

stones into its new

high jewelry.

ered envelope

tion to the

jewelr

bold

ty

new

60 AUGUST 2019

The Goods | STYLE

whenahand-deliv

arrivescontaininganinvita

unveilingofCartier’snewhigh- y

collectioninLondon,theansweris

invariably yes. Similar to an exclusive

artist’s preview, it’s a chance for

Cartier’s VIP clients to land a one-off

treasure before it even reaches the

boutique. And the 120-piece Magnitude

collection—named for its visual high

impact—didn’t disappoint.

For the first time, Cartier combined

fine precious gems with hard cut stones.

Some were the kind of geological

specimens one expects to see at the

Museum of Natural History: A 77-carat

matrix opal, which looked like it

fell from space with its electric-blue

bolts of light, was the centerpiece of

a cuff surrounded by blue and purple

sapphires. There won’t be another stone

like that one anytime soon. Another

unusualspecimen, a huge rutilated

quartz,wasthefocal point of a pendant

surroundedbystreams of diamonds,

coralandrosypink morganite in the

colors of a sunset.

“The jewelry is bold in scale, but not

flashy,” says Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s

international director of image, style

and heritage. “The beauty is rather

subtle.” Taking a cue from luxury’s

more subdued aesthetic overall, Cartier

introduced these more earthy-looking

hard stones into the mix to give

serious pieces a sense of contrast and

playfulness. While the hard stones are

more common, Rainero explains, his

team hunts for the most exceptional

varieties of rutilated quartz and lapis

lazuli, most often sourced directly from

the miners at the annual Tucson gem

fair. This was most obvious in a strand

of gum-ball-size bright-blue lapis lazuli

beads from Afghanistan that was paired

unexpectedly with dazzling yellow,

orange and white diamonds.

It takes about two years to conceive

Cartier’s high-jewelry collections, which

are typically unveiled with great fanfare

at a formal gala at different destinations

around the world. This year, in keeping

with its unorthodox theme, Magnitude

was presented in late June at 180 The

Strand, a 1970s landmark building

lauded for its Brutalist architecture. The

austere setting was transformed into a

series of presentation rooms and several

small-scale salons for private viewings,

where international clients could try on

the marque’s latest creations—this is art

to be worn, after all. But don’t worry if

you weren’t among the few invited:

Cartier is adding more pieces to its

Magnitude collection, which will debut

in stores this fall. Jill Newman

Earthly

Delights

Cartier infuses

color and novel

stones intoitsn

high jewelry.

eredenvelope

r

bold

ty

new