the rocks that protect the beach from the open sea, making stunning views as
the light fades. We headed back to the van as the rain started again, and
before the sea stranded us for the night.
That evening we ate at one of the few restaurants on this stretch of the
coast, the Redwood Grill. This turned out to be more pub than restaurant and
felt like a real 'spit and sawdust' place - just without the sawdust. And, if I am
honest, without the spit – at least as far as we could tell in the smoky low-lit
interior. What it did have was ‘entertainment’ provided by a jukebox and
(simultaneously) a man playing piano. The live music ranged from the Beatles
to 'In The Jungle', very eclectic, as was the food.
I had a bun full of grease with a little bit of gristle and Emma had a
'pulled pork' sandwich - basically pre-chewed meat off ribs. The man who took
our order was also the owner and the cook, and hairy in a George Lucas
style. Perhaps it was Lucas? Doing more research for sound effects or
settings? While we waited for our meals we amused ourselves by reading the
local newspaper. It was full of very funny adverts, either selling dental
cosmetic surgery, advertising people offering to 'unclutter' your life, or
requesting wigs to be donated.
The next day we carried on down the coast, aiming to visit Hearst Castle in
the afternoon. Unfortunately we got sidetracked by a huge colony of elephant
seals.... As you do!
We had read in Lonely Planet that they came to shore for weeks on
end and that we would know when we were in the right place because there
would be a lay by packed with people in the middle of nowhere. Sure enough