one currently being used, or “mined”, for its humus. As the third heap is used up, any
undecomposed material in it is returned to the first heap for a second decomposing
cycle.
As soon as the first heap is filled, it is covered over and left for a period; the third
heap should then be emptied completely, and this then becomes the new “first” heap.
It is not necessary to turn over the material, nor to add artificial “aids”, provided
that:
- there is sufficient movement of air in at least some parts of the heap, especially at
the base, which can be started off with twigs and small branches. The sides should
be either slatted or open to the elements, to allow air to enter; - the heap is kept moist;
- there are occasional layers of highly nitrogenous material, either manure or partly
decomposed faeces, and, most important of all; - the layers are continuously built up to form a flattish, horizontal top. The tendency
is to put material into the centre of the heap. The centre should be reserved for
mushy, edible material, while grasses and other green plants are placed around the
edges so as to maintain a flat top surface.
Devils in the Compost Heap—Some Cautionary Tales
1.Weeds: the rhizomes of perennial grass weeds, and seeds of both weeds and crops,
can re-grow after they have been through the heap and then returned to the soil unless
the compost has been made very efficiently ie hot enough so as to destroy them.
2.Human Excreta: there is a health risk when using faeces, which should be either bio-
digested or safely “stored” for several months before adding to the heap. A “soak” of
dry soil, ash or sawdust should be sprinkled on top of every new addition No problem
to mix pee and poo, if enough soak is added.
3.Woody Material: this may take a long time to break down, so it should be either cut
up or smashed before being added to the heap, or put back onto the next heap.
4.Goats & Rodents: these often eat some plant material from the compost heap, which
should then be either fenced off for goats, or de-ratted. Food scraps should never be
composted; it is better to feed this to animals, birds etc.
5.Water: in hot dry regions it may be difficult to keep the compost heap moist enough
to decompose properly. In this case the heap should be sited in a shady place, or a
slatted roof can be fitted, and any spare water (or urine) should be put on the heap. In
hot, dry weather it is also a good idea to cover the heap with old sacks, carpets and so
on to reduce dehydration, at all three stages of making compost.
Soil Capping
Also known as crusting, soil capping is the formation of a hard “crust” or “cap” on a
soil surface, usually after heavy rainfall and/or sunshine, or irrigation, which causes the
soil surface particles to close up. This not only makes it difficult for seedlings to
emerge, but also increases water run off and soil erosion; plant growth suffers as free
gaseous exchange for the roots is reduced.
14 TONY WINCH
currently being filled, the second heap is full up and busy “making”, and remains
covered over with sacks, carpets etc. until the first heap is filled. The third heap is the