Growing Food: A Guide to Food Production

(Elle) #1

The plant is a biennial, and if left in the ground will normally flower in the
second summer. It grows from about 30 cm to about 1m tall, and has a swollen
taproot, either short and stumpy or long and tapering according to the variety. Plant
breeders focus on the two main plant types, either the slower growing higher
yielding long root types or the faster growing lower yielding types with short, stubby
roots.
Sometimes the plants behave like an annual and bolt in their first year, ie they
form a seed head, which is fed from the food reserves in the root which becomes
thin and shrivelled, useless as food in fact. The best way out of this dilemma is to
grow varieties that are adapted to the area.
Carrots are members of the Umbelliferae (or Apiaceae) family, which includes a
number of poisonous species such as poison hemlock, water hemlock and fools
parsley, as well as edible plants such as arracacha, carrot, caraway, celeriac, celery,
coriander, fennel, anise, dill, coriander, caraway, cumin, ginseng, parsley and
parsnip.
Some hybrid varieties are available, a few of which claim to have some tolerance
to the dreaded Carrot Fly. This pest is normally the single biggest problem with
growing carrots, and is discussed on the following page under “Pests”.


PLANTING
Propagation: by seed, which should be sown quite thickly as the germination rate is
often low. The seed is very small, so to make plant spacing more regular the seed is
often mixed with dry earth and/or lime when it is planted. Emergence can take ten
days or more.
Soil: carrots are not very demanding and will grow in most soils if they are not too
acidic or heavy. Sandy loams are the best, although some of these can be deficient in
some minor or trace elements, especially the deeper soils. Carrots are tolerant of
some soil acidity; ideally, the pH should be about 6–7, but prefer sandy, chalky well
limed soils.


well rotted into the soil before the carrots are developing, to avoid “forking” of the
roots. The soil should be left light and fluffy, and not too compacted.
Seed rate: 1–5 kg/ha, equivalent to 4–5 seeds per 2.5 cm. There are about 890–
910,000 seeds/kg.


between plants, and later to about 8 cm. The thinnings can (and should!) be eaten—
organic carrots taste divine. After thinning, the soil should be drawn up around the
remaining plants to discourage carrot flies from re-entering.
Depth: from about 1 cm in deep and retentive soil to 2.5 cm in dry and light soil.
Intercropping: Carrots can be interplanted with clumps or rows of Alliums such as
onions, shallots, perennial onions and garlic to hoodwink the nostrils of the wily fly.
Both the Carrot Fly and the Onion Fly are kept away if the Allium “guards” are
thick enough and well positioned.


Spacing: 30 40 cm between rows. Plants in the row are first thinned to about 4 cm –


226 TONY WINCH


Manure and/or compost should be applied during the previous autumn so that it is
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