2019-09-01_Harpers_Bazaar_Australia.

(Marty) #1
GEORGES ANTONI; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; DARREN McDONALD; EDITOR’S PORTRAIT: KRISTINA SOLJO. HAIR AND MAKEUP BY SAMANTHA POWELL AT UNION

here’s beena seismicshift infashionthisseason.
The trainertrendis dying.Souped-upathleisureis
nolongerwhatwe’recraving.Andeleganceis back.
Whatwe’vebeenseeingontheA/W 2019 run-
ways(andlandinginstoresnearyounow)is about
refinement,withtailoringandeffortlesssuitingfea-
turingfrontandcentr eytrendsis the1970sbourgeoisbabe—thefantasy
versionoftheaffluent,neatlydressedwoman.Thinkprim,thinkproper.Silkblouses,
sharpblazers,sensibleskirts,touchesofboucléandeveryshadeofbeige,brownand
camelimaginable—whichourcoverstar,CarolynMurphy,bringstolifeonpage130.
It’skindofironic,isn’tit,thatwhenwhatwasoncethoughtofasrebellious(body-con
silhouettes,logosweats,massiveparkas)becomesjustanotherlooklitteringInstagram,
suddenlytheexactopposite—bourgeoisstyle,inthisinstance—feelsrevolutionary.
Forthosewhofindallthistailoringwaytootameandwantto revit up,youcanalways
addsomeangularlinesà la thelooksin“ShoulderSeason”,ourfashionshootonpage158,inwhichfashiondirector
NaomiSmithinterpretsAnthonyVaccarello’scovetablenewSaintLaurentcollection.This is somuchmorethanjust
oversizedshouldersonjackets.We’retalkingfierce. Linessosharpyoucouldcarvea hamonthem.Addtothatknife-
edgepantsandthemostincrediblemannishovercoats,whichwe’veallbeendroolingoverhereatBAZAARHQ.
If thepromiseofmorefluidtailoringstillisn’tenoughtoenticeyoutosuitup,anotherlookweloveis a boilersuit.
A fewweeksagowhenI wasinTokyotomeetwithSalvatoreFerragamocreativedirectorPaulAndrew,I fellinlove
withhistannappaleatherversion.“Womenhavesuchmultifacetedlives,”hetoldme,“soI wanteddetailslikedraw-
stringswhereyoucanadjustandshapethegarmenttoexactlyhowyouwanttowearit.”
Andrewhasgarnereda reputationfordiversemodelcastinginFerragamoshowsandcam-
paignsthatextendswaybeyondthetokenisticgestureweoftensee,wherebydesignerspopa
70-year-oldontherunwaytograbattention.This seasoninNewYork,London,Milanand
Paris,wesawsomethingmore—a definitivecelebrationofgen-Xicons.Forty-two-year-old
KirstyHumewalkedFerragamo;ChristyTurlington(50)wasspottedatMarcJacobs;Stella
Tennant(48)workedBurberry;while ShalomHarlow (45)opened theVersaceshow,and
StephanieSeymour(51)closedit.Finally.Recognitionof thenormalageingof humans!I know
I can’tlooklikean18-year-old,butat leastI canfantasiseaboutlookinglikethesewomen.
EspeciallyCarolynMurphy,theultimatecareermodel.That’sa rareclaimtomakeinthis
era,wheneveryonehasa sidehustle,aneponymousbrandoranacting
careerthey’rekeentokick off. “Ihavea tonofotherinterests,but
I don’tfeeltheneedtostandona soapboxandsay,‘I’mtryingtosave
theworld!’”MurphyrevealstoBAZAAR’s GraceO’Neill.
Knowing whoyouare. If thatisn’t theultimatestylestatement,
I don’tknowwhatis.

CarolynMurphyin
“SweetCarolyn”on
page130.Below:
“ShoulderSeason”
onpage158.

THE


NEW


FIERCE


EUGENIE KELLY
Editor-in-Chief

Salvatore
Ferragamo
A/W 2019.


24 HARPERSBAZAAR.COM.AU^ September 2019^


EDITOR’S
letter
Free download pdf