Stitches - AU (2019-08)

Technically Speaking

Construction Elements –

Patch Pockets

By Alison Wheeler

PatchPockets

Becausepatchpocketsarea featureontheoutsideof

thegarment,careis neededinplacementforthemost

flatteringeffect.Whenusingprintedfabric,matchingthe

print(especiallya plaidorstripe)willoftengivea more

professionalappearancetothegarment.

Tip:Makea templatepatternoftheactualfinishedpocketin tissue

paperandtracematchpointssothatthepocketcanbecuttoassist

in patternmatching.

Anyshapecanbeusedforpatchpocketsandtheuseofa

cardboardtemplatewillassistinpressingtheseamallowances

accurately.Seephoto1.

Interfacingis appliedtothetopedgeofthepocketsoit

willretainitsshape;however,if thefabricis verylightweight,

considerinterfacingthewholepockettogiveit morebody.

Whenstitchingtheupperflapinplace,stitchtowardsthe

foldofthefabriconbothsidesandtrimtheseamallowance

intheflapareaonly.Seephoto2.

Turn the fl ap to the wrong side of the pocket and slip the

cardboard template in place. See photo 3. Press the sides and

bottom of the pocket against the cardboard. To form a mitre

on the corners, fold the corners in and press in place. Then

fold the edge seams in until the mitre folds sit together.

See photos 4 and 5.

If the pocket is to be placed on a curved area of the body,

ie bust or hip position, place the garment and pocket over a

tailor’s ham to build a curve into the pocket. Tack in place

around all the edges and diagonally across. See photo 6.

This will hold the pocket in place for the machine stitching.

There are a number of ways to fi nish the stitching at the top

edge of the pocket. Observation of techniques in ready-made

This series of articles focuses on various areas of garment construction, offering different methods from those

detailed in the pattern guide sheet.

The ability to personalise garments is one of the great benefi ts of being able to sew. Adding in-seam or patch

pockets can provide both functional and decorative elements to many garments.

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