Technically Speaking
but allows the sewer to turn over the elastic, showing nothing
but the lace the briefs are constructed in.How do I measure the length of elastic to know how much
I need to use?
This can be diffi cult as it will depend on the quality and ‘weight’
of the elastic. The general rule is to take your waist measurement
and reduce this amount by 15%. This will work in most cases if
the facing or folding elastic is of a standard and good quality. On
occasion, you may purchase a heavy-weight or thicker profi le
elastic and 10% is recommended. Alternatively if you are using
lightweight or folding elastic 20% is recommended. For the leg
area, it is best to use the pattern’s recommended quantity and
sew it together and check the fi t prior to attaching it to the briefs.
When attaching elastic to knickers it is important to use the
stretch and relax method. We like to use the half and quarter
method. Pin the elastic to the knickers at the half-way point and
then in between so you get the quarter point. Personally, I like
to shift the quarter points marginally to allow more elastic in the
back as I believe it gives a better fi t though the posterior.Finishings
Don’t forget your 100%
cotton fabric for your
gusset. This can be
integrated into the crotch
pattern pieces or overlaid
in a zigzag method to
keep a lovely lace edge
if the pattern requires it.
On occasion, craft lace
or stretch trim can be
gorgeous when fi nishing
leg areas without elastic.
And let’s not forget a
lovely bow for the fi nal
professional and fi nishing touch!Summary
So, when selecting or making your knickers, there really is no
general rule. From observation, most curvy full-fi gured people
generally opt for high-cut briefs, bikini briefs and cheekies.
Brazilians also minimise bottom size visually, as they create a
‘half’ effect to the eye. Although not every body type will enjoy
the comfort of a Brazilian brief. High-cut briefs will visually
create a longer line for the legs. Tall, slim people generally suit
boyleg, cheekies, hipsters or low-leg briefs.
Full briefs and control briefs seem to work well on most
shapes wanting that vintage or shaped look, and often full
French knickers are a preferred taste and work well across the
different body types as they create a fun and fl irty appearance.
Strings are a must when wearing fi tted clothing as they eliminate
knicker lines.
The choice is yours! Don’t let the marketplace limit you. Yes
you can re-create your favourite pair of knickers! Yes you will go
shopping without the urge to remove your ‘wedgie’ and yes you
can create boutique briefs at a fraction of the cost!For classes on brief- and knicker-making you can visit
http://www.boobytraps.com.auFor all your brief- and knicker-making needs,
contact Dearne Natoli on
Phone: (02) 8411 1984
Email: [email protected]
Website: http://www.boobytraps.com.au