MAXIM.COM SEP/OCT 2019 55THE INSIDER’S GUIDE TO
FRENCH POLYNESIA
What makes French Polynesia special?
With 118 islands boasting high, rugged mountain peaks, coral reefs, tur-
quoise-blue lagoons, white sand, palm-fringed beaches, and luxuriously
intimate resorts, each island paradise has something for everyone. But
visitors to our islands create memories through authentic experiences
that cannot be found anywhere else in the world. For centuries, the Tahi-
tian people have referred to this as “Mana”. Mana is a life force and spirit
that surrounds and connects all living things.... And from the moment
you arrive, you will understand why we say our islands are “embraced by
Mana.” [French Polynesia is] the center of the romantic universe. A place
where every person that has ever experienced the Mana [of ] the islands
will tell you is where you find [the] happy life. And you will feel it ripple
up your spine the moment you step off the plane, and it will fill your soul.
How do you choose between the countless beaches and atolls?
Beyond a simple beach experience, take a tour on the water. The ocean
represents the complete lifecycle to the [French Polynesians], and they
have a masterful, reverential and respectful relationship with it. Tra-
ditional outrigger canoes, surfing and sailing are part of everyday life.
Of course, travelers can also experience sunset cruising, kayaking, jet-
skiing, and more. The sea, the rainforest and heaven are the realms of
the gods in the Tahitian’s spiritual worlds. French Polynesia is a world
of water, with dozens of unique dive sites around each island and atoll,
such as the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve on Fakarava island. But for
me, the Tuamotus Archipelago beside Bora Bora have the best beaches
and the most amazing water.
What about land based activities?
There are amazing trails for hikers of all levels, French Polynesia offers
countless hiking possibilities among diverse landscapes including val-
leys, cut by refreshing rivers and draped with superb waterfalls where
paths wind through luxuriant tropical vegetation. For those unafraid of
heights, vertiginous crests lead to summits, some of more than 2,000
meters (Aorai, Orohena, Mou’a Puta, Mount Rotui). For those want-
ing a more relaxing outing, I recommend exploring the seashore paths
bordering remote creeks overshadowed by towering cliffs such as the
Te Pari cliffs. But wherever you venture, be careful, hiking on the is-
lands can be challenging with features such as river crossings, pathways
which are slippery at times and/or carpeted with roots, and particularly
crumbly volcanic rocks. But nothing that should discourage one from
exploring.
What’s on the menu?
Traditional cuisine in French Polynesia is diverse, but I’d focus on
our seafood. Fish from the lagoon or from the ocean, ranging from
perch, mahi-mahi and parrotfish are often on the menu for typical Poly-
nesian dishes. They are often eaten raw, sometimes marinated in lime
juice and coconut milk as in the famous recipe for poisson cru à la tahitienne.
All these tropical foods are found in traditional ahima’a or Polynesian
ovens where fruits, vegetables, suckling pigs, Tahitian chicken fāfā (lo-
cal spinach) and other delicacies such as p o’e , a desert made with fruit.
Everything is sprinkled with fresh coconut oil and turns out deliciously
creamy. There are even specialized tours that let you discover the flavors
of the islands on picnics organized on beaches or on a motu (islet).
What’re the best options in Tahitian nightlife?
Usually, people start by a happy hour in a hotel or a local bar where theyhang out, then a restaurant or dinner at home. Afterwards you can con-
tinue partying in town (Papeete) where you can find all the bars. You
also can experience the roulottes [food trucks] on the port of Papeete.
Tahitians usually gather in groups and sing Tahitian songs with ukule-
les and guitars. They also dance spontaneously right there. This tradi-
tion is called “la bringue”.
How to best navigate the waters of French Polynesia?
French Polynesia is 99% ocean. Cruise ships, canoes, sailboats... there
are many ways to explore our waters. In the last few years, Polynesia
developed the “36-month route” throughout our islands for sailboats,
with an eye to sustainable development and environmental protec-
tion. French Polynesia also promotes snorkel trails. Four trails—two
in Tahiti, one in Bora Bora and one in Rangiroa—offer a unique tour
of the lagoon and its biodiversity. Just put on your fins, mask and snor-
kel and enjoy an underwater adventure that is both awesome and in-
formative.
How does French Polynesia balance tourism with environmental
protections and sustainable practices?
The rāhui is a temporary, protective ban on fishing or harvesting, al-
lowing time for species to grow. It is an ancient practice, yet very much
rooted in Polynesian society. The people of Rapa (Austral Islands) and
Maiao (Society Islands) were the first to reestablish a rahui, and Tahiti
has followed. The environmental results are obvious, especially in the
preservation of marine biodiversity. French Polynesia is one of the larg-
est maritime areas in the world, and its entire 1.9 million square mile
domain is a marine mammal sanctuary. Wildlife ecotourism is on the
rise, and protecting the animals and guaranteeing their tranquility is
essential. There are rules of approach and observation, in particular
for the humpback whales who come to give birth in our waters during
the austral winter.
Is there an ideal time of year to visit?
There’s no bad time to visit the islands. Cooled by the gentle breezes
of the South Pacific, the climate is ideal. Being tropical but moderate,
the climate features sunny, pleasant days and an average yearly tem-
perature of 80°F (27°C). Summer is from November through April,
when the climate is slightly warmer and more humid. Winter is from
May through October, when the climate is slightly cooler and dryer.
But again, you can’t go wrong regardless of when you visit our islands.
Beyond the famous five-star resorts, where should one stay?
You must try the Tahitian guesthouses experience. As unique as the
islands themselves, local accommodations dot each of the islands and
you’ll be welcomed into the daily fabric of life in The Islands of Tahiti.
These smaller lodgings, family hotels, and guesthouses offer an au-
thenticity and a deeply experiential means of connecting to the lives
of the Tahitians. Properties usually offer from one to twelve rooms or
bungalows on the beaches, in the mountains or valleys, or within a
village and can range from rooms in a family home to an all-inclusive
private home on a family island or motu. You will also find unique cu-
linary experiences at Tahitian guesthouses, most often with a farm to
table approach of locally sourced ingredients and traditional recipes.
Nearly 300 of these Tahitian guesthouses welcome adventuresome, in-
dependent, or seasoned travelers looking to feel, rather than just see,
the true heartbeat of French Polynesia.Mareva Marciano, winner of Miss Tahiti (and Miss France), was born and raised on Tahiti, and con-
tinues to serve as an unofficial ambassador for the islands that she loves. Here’s a comprehensive guide
to visiting French Polynesia from the ultimate insider:
By MAREVA MARCIANOMareva Marciano pictured on Nukutepipi, the gorgeous private island
resort belonging to Cirque du Soleil co-founder Guy Laliberté (see page 56)