The Times - UK (2022-04-09)

(Antfer) #1

the times Saturday April 9 2022


17


‘Morning mist shredded away


to reveal the hills of south


Wales across the rising tide’
Christopher Somerville’s good walk

To extend the


season, use lilacs


as a living


support for


a late-f lowering


clematis


Prune lilacs annually


Once a tall lilac reaches about 2m tall it
should be pruned a little every year after
flowering to develop a good framework
of stems and enhance flowering the
following year. Remove weak, twiggy
growth, non-productive stems and
suckers from the base. Cut long thin
stems back to a pair of leaves, leaving
branches with wood around pen-
cil thickness, which will
flower better next year.
Deadhead after
flowering if you
can reach to tidy
it up and im-
prove vigour.

Saving


old
lilacs:

the
methods
If you have, or in-
herit, a large old lilac
that is misshapen or
dense, there are two main
methods to get it back into shape.
One slow and one fast, the choice is yours:


  1. The three-year fix
    After flowering this year, cut one third of
    the main stems out to ground level aiming
    for a balanced shape — so not all from one
    side. Next year, after flowering, remove


another third,
then the remain-
ing third in the last
year. This should
provide flowers and
a regenerated plant
to maintain annually.


  1. Get it done
    (This is more my approach,
    which matches my personali-
    ty!) Cut everything back to 15-20cm
    (6-8in) off the ground in March or early
    April. Yes, that means no flowers this year.
    This pruning will throw up many shoots.
    This time next year retain several strong
    shoots to form the new balanced frame-
    work, prune back to pencil thickness and
    remove all the others at ground level.


Joe’s top six lilacs


Syringa ‘Primrose’
White flowers that mature to a soft,
creamy yellow and fabulous scent. Height
3m x spread 3m.

S. x josiflexa ‘Bellicent’
Upright branches that arch gently when
in flower. Rose pink, highly fragrant
flowers in loose clusters and dark foliage
set off by dark stems. Height 3m x spread
2.5m.

S. vulgaris ‘Firmament’
Light blue flowers with purple shades. One
of lilac breeders’ first blues in 1932. Good
scent. Height 3m x spread 2.5m.

S. ‘Red Pixie’
An excellent choice for the smaller garden
or can be grown in a large container. Reds
buds burst open into light pink flowers and
the small foliage is in proportion with the
plant. Height 1.8m x spread 1.8m.

S. meyeri ‘Palibin’ (Korean lilac)
Another small one. Masses of pinky white
flowers from darker buds and dark green
foliage. Height 1.5m x spread 1.5m.

S. ‘Boomerang’
New introduction and so named because
it keeps flowering. After the initial flush
it carries on producing some flowers till
the end of summer. Purple, pink flowers
from deep purple buds. Height 1.5m x
spread 1.5m.

interior flower and reverse of flower). The
larger, showier “look at me!” varieties
often carry large double flowers (not so
good for pollinators to access) and can
look out of proportion with the plant as
a whole.


What to do with lilacs


once their short flowering


spell is over


After flowering, yes they just turn into
leafy shrubs. To extend the season, why
not use them as a living support for a late-
flowering clematis (C. viticella or texensis
varieties are good choices)? Plant the
clematis away from the lilac’s roots still at-
tached to the cane at a 45-degree angle,
and remember it will grow towards the
light, so start it on the shady side. Don’t let
it dry out while it establishes itself. Both
lilacs and clematis can be planted now for
a fulfilling weekend project.


Cut back hardy fuchsias
(magellanica, molinae,
‘Hawkshead’, ‘Riccartonii’,
‘Tricolor’ etc). Either you
can tidy them back,
removing the dead and
wispier growth, or you
can cut the whole thing
down low like a red-
stemmed dogwood to
produce a fountain of
long stems that will start
to flower later in summer
but go on till the frosts.
Take a look at your
paving cracks. Are they
attractively populated
by plants or overrun? Go
through them with a
knife, removing rogues
and unwanted seedlings.
Using weedkiller on
“paving weeds” looks
ghastly, though if you do
it consistently instead of
making physical
disturbance by weeding,
you get nice seams of
moss between the
paving stones.
Sow hardy annuals where
they are to flower:
nasturtiums, calendulas,
cornflowers, lavateras etc.
Always sow thinly so the
seedlings come up singly
and can be thinned
without disturbance to
each other. Prepare the
soil as you would for lawn
seed, lightly forking it
over and breaking it
down to a fine tilth. Criss-
cross the patch to be
sown with shallow drills
and when you have
dribbled the seed into
them, gently draw the soil
over the drills.
Overwintered geraniums
and fuchsias still indoors
will be growing again
now. Nip out the tips of
the leading shoots to
make them bush out.
Ideally, pinch just above
an outward pointing bud
as you would when
pruning a rose to
encourage a well-spread,
open-centred plant.
Watch for aphids; they
seem to appear from
nowhere, even indoors.
It is barely worth dead-
heading most daffodils,
but if you have bought
special new varieties you
want to increase fast,
taking the seedheads will
mean more energy goes
into the bulb.
Stephen Anderton

Weeder’s


digest


Page


19


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